Kingston SE South Australia

With COVID restrictions lifting all over Australia and Victorians finally given approval to venture a little further, we joyfully hit the road. Choosing to head to beautiful South Australia, a state that never fails to fulfill our desire for quiet towns and awesome beaches, we decided on Kingston SE. We did the drive in one day as our time was limited and we wanted to get the most out the week we had.

Stopping for loo breaks and bakery delights along the way, the km’s travelled were not too bad. Beaufort is a popular stop, with a nice bakery and clean toilets. I recommend the Beaufort Country Bakery. We had chicken sandwiches made up fresh while we waited and delightful cakes. Being a fan of vanilla slices – see my blog – The Great Vanilla Slice – obviously, I tried one of theirs…it was good.

We arrived in Kingston a wee bit tired and hungry, but awfully pleased to have a front row site with a sea view. After setting up and a quick dinner, we walked across the road to watch the sunset before ending a long day snuggled down in our van for two with a glass of wine and a movie. Zzzzz….

The next day dawned with a yawn and after breakfast we were ready to explore. The first thing we did is suss out the town. Walking the streets observing the architecture, shops and people gives a feel for the personality of a town. And of course, I have to find the local bakery. Always a source of joy…and vanilla slices.

Overlooking the Kingston Foreshore Caravan Park is the Cape Jaffa lighthouse, which was decommissioned and moved to where it now resides lighting up the streetscape at night. You can climb it, but it costs and needs to be booked as a tour. Tempting, but we were not organised enough to book.

The Kingston foreshore is grassy and clean with an asphalt track running along it. Tracks to the beach cut through the vegetation to a fine white sand beach. There is quite a bit of seaweed, but still lovely. Big tides clear footprints and leave the sand glorious.

The wind was crazy on our first day, resulting in some hilarious hairdos. Each day our walks revealed a treasure trove of pretty shells. I was particularly excited by the scallop shells.

The colours and patterns of Kingston town. Very pretty.

The Kingston Jetty is looooong. A lovely weathered timber structure. So much nicer than modern concrete piers don’t you think? Opposite the Foreshore caravan park is a pontoon for swimmers. A nice addition to any beach. Although the seaweed surrounding it would make me worry about what was lurking beneath the water…

Each evening awesome kites were seen on the foreshore. They changed daily while we were there.

A short drive south of Kingston is Cape Jaffa. The town is very quiet, the new canal development and marina are still in the early stages of becoming anything. We walked the jetty which was of lovely old timber but didn’t stay long.

The Granites, about 20 kms north of Kingston. A nice beach walk and interesting rock formations. Very peaceful and stunningly beautiful.

The Coorong Loop Road, just under an hour north of Kingston is well worth a day trip. Take drinks and snacks as there is only a van selling takeaway in Salt Creek. The loop road takes you off the highway for about 13 km. It is unsealed but graded, although some parts were a little rough due to corrugations. There is a long drop dunny not far in and I can happily say it did not smell. I sent the mighty warrior in first to make sure the coast was clear of smell and/or nasty surprises.

Salt lakes are one of my joys and I was squealing with delight when we saw this one just a short way along the loop road. The colours varied from sparkling crystals of white to soft blue/greens to pinks. It was beautiful.

Fascinating as well as beautiful. The salt creates a landscape that captivates.

Tea Tree Crossing allows you to cross to the ocean side of the Coorong. Not something I would try in the wet, but fortunately it was totally dry on the day we were there. Check the tides before you go. Sign posts mark where to drive and it is quite firm, but only suitable for 4WD as the entry on and off the crossing is quite steep and super soft sand.

A day trip to Robe was both a joy and a nightmare. A protected bay, that had the sun been shining, would have been gob smackingly beautiful, was unfortunately overrun with hoards of families dragging sour faced teenagers and grumpy children along the crowded main street. It was ridiculously busy, pushing our way through the shuffling disgruntled families was a horrible experience. We will return out of season.

We did eventually find a quietish outdoor venue to have some lunch, which was a forgettable experience in itself, however, on a positive note, Robe offers so much visually. The council has built a 6km walk along the coastline that is absolutely glorious. There are several places along it to park and enjoy a short walk if you are not up to the full 12km return trip. We were only there a short time so didn’t do the whole walk, much as we would have liked to, and will do another time.

The sun disappeared after lunch before we had the pleasure of enjoying the beautiful bay. The white sand made the water appear opalescent, too hard to capture in a photo, but the beach was relatively empty with the overcast conditions, so a drive along the hard packed sand was easy. It is the type of beach that beckons you into the water. So clean and clear.

Pop into the sales room for Loophole Brewery. They have a good range of beers from easy drinking, to the interesting Austral Project brews made with grape skins. Pretty awesome when you can get a local brew.

The great thing about a road trip is the awesome things you come upon. From the well known tourist sites like Larry the Lobster, to this fellow sitting on the side of the road between Robe and Kingston.

Back in Kingston, just out of town, nestled alongside the petrol stations is an unassuming bakery titled Robe Bakery, even though it is in Rosetown, within the Kingston District. Don’t overlook this little timber structure. It delivers. The vanilla slice had crisp, flakey biscuit and the custard was smooth and light in texture.

Kingston Foreshore caravan park is a good place to base yourself for exploring. Well spaced grassy sites, and if you ask for the front row, a room with a view. The facilities are basic but clean, and the water flow in the showers excellent. The walk in to town is easy and the IGA well stocked. Beach or track walks to the pier are excellent. I highly recommend a visit. Our time being short, we had to head home way too soon. I was sorry to leave this quiet and beautiful area.

As we headed towards home via a couple of nights in Nelson, a loo break in Millient coincided with morning tea, so we walked the main street looking for a bakery, which was nowhere to be seen. I couldn’t believe there was no bakery, but on the way to the public toilets in the park, I glimpsed a sign one block in from the main road. Andy’s Bakery does a super donut, but i ate it before i took a photo. The vanilla slice looked amazing and i was excited to try it…sadly it had an interesting chemical aftertaste I have not experienced in a vanilla slice before. I will say at this point, that I share the vanilla slices. I don’t boff them by myself.

The main street of Millicent – check out this claim to fame! I love it. They have the world record for covered gumboots. 443!

Across the border and back in Victoria, we arrived in Nelson. We visited here quite some time ago and were pleased to see that other than the addition of a new petrol station, not much has changed. Nelson provides a base for exploring the sensational Glenelg river, it’s estuary and wild ocean beaches. We stayed at Kywong Caravan Park. Note that phone reception is an issue, so don’t come here if you are addicted to technology. Do come here if you are searching for a space to read and rest and let your mind take a break from the world and its troubles. I should mention the showers are a bit temperamental, changing unexpectedly from a full flow of hot water, to a trickle of cold that turns scalding hot without warning. Turning up the cold water provides a momentary warm mix before becoming ice cold again. Very challenging. And not a pleasant experience. However, the park offers good sized shady sites and is really peaceful when a super annoying child wasn’t bullying her little friends at the top of her voice. It took all of my will power not to grab a wooden spoon and find her. I am sure her pint sized friends would have cheered.

Walks to the ocean beaches are well maintained and easily found. 4G from the look out! We downloaded several movies up here.

There is heaps of wildlife, birds, waterways and amazing sunsets. Walking on the sand is excellent as it is firm and white and beautiful, but the ocean waters, pristine, dramatic and deadly, are not safe for swimming. Glorious for walking and absorbing the astounding colours. I use the word beautiful too much. Must find alternative.

The Great South West Walk follows the coast and Glenelg River. Well marked and offering several detours to the water down steps either built or carved, there are heaps of boat sheds and landings giving a picturesque view of the river and a place to sit and contemplate.

The Glenelg Estuary is a space of immense beauty and brings me joy. The walk to the ocean beach is easy at low tide if you are okay with picking your way through and around whatever is washed up. And very satisfying when you get through it. Heaps of little fish are darting around in the quite deep pools of tannin stained water left by the outgoing tide.

Low tide allows gentle swims and areas for families to bring the kiddies with canoes and floaty toys. The water is super warm, shallow and clean, but beware the fast flow as it nears the ocean. It’s wild and dangerous. Not for swimming, but the crazy water is captivating.

I took way to many photos, but it’s stunning. How could i not!

Nelson town has a pub, a couple of kiosks, a petrol station and not much else as far as retail outlets. Fill up on groceries and booze before heading there. Love the Nelson Pubs fund raising. The ceiling has notes pinned all over it.

Sadly we had to head home. We planned to drive inland and stay in Mortlake overnight to escape the Victorian coastal crowds that gathered for the extended long weekend break. Mortlake boasted an extinct volcano and interesting architecture, so we thought we’d give it a go.

Morning tea time brought us into Portland. A walk around the town provided nothing enticing, so needing loo’s we headed to the visitors centre. A little museum provided a spot of interest for free, so we decided to support the cafe which had nice views over the harbour. The lady serving was delightful and set up a table for us on the outside sheltered balcony. We sat there for quite a while enjoying the serenity. We chose a vanilla slice, of course, and the citrustart, which looked very good. I am not sure where they were baked but they were far better than some of the bakery products we have experience and the lovely lady went to a lot of trouble cutting them in half so we could share and decorating the plates with icing sugar and a squeeze of red. Most unexpected. The cappuccino was rather a piece of sculptural artwork, although a little overly fluffed for us. The vanilla slice was creamy, light in texture, smooth and although the biscuit was a little undercooked, it was remarkably tasty. The citrus tart was not too tart, some tend to set my eyes watering! It was creamy in texture and the pastry shell a delicious biscuit that held together well without being impossible to cut with a fork. The coffee was a little insipid, but i would return there to support them regardless. Nice stop.

On to Mortlake. The caravan park was in a pretty park, but we were not comfortable with it and decided to grab a quick lunch and head instead to Port Fairy for out last night on the way home. There is not much i can say about Mortlake. It sounded promising but it isn’t really somewhere that offers much to see. The bakery was a little grotty and the food looked uncared for. Although the pies boast about their quality, i can assure you the pasties were a little strange. Perhaps i should have tried a pie, but they were reminiscent of white flabby skin and consequently a little off putting.

Arrival in Port Fairy was a little different to our previous visit. Jam packed and bursting with long weekenders. Being there for only one night we made the best of the crowds by zipping in and out of town for supplies and going for walks. The weather was the best we had ever had in Port Fairy with warm temperatures and little wind.

Beach walks were heavenly as no seemed interested.

Rock walks..same. Everyone seemed to just be hanging in the main street cafes or the camp sites.

Super clear waters and the ever present wallabies. Always a winner Port Fairy.

Time to go home.

Last stop Camperdown for lunch. The main street was nice for a stroll. We stopped at The Loaf and Lounge for lunch. A large space, with seating outside as well as in. It was comfortable and offered a nice range of food choices. The sandwiches were huge chunky slices of bread like i have never seen anywhere since my friends lunches in high school. Tea came in a pot of adequate size and the mixed sandwiches, which were our choice for the day, were light and flavoursome. The vanilla slice, yes, i know, way too many vanilla slices this trip, was over coloured and the icing over flavoured, the biscuit over cooked and slightly bitter, but if you didn’t separate the bits, it was quite okay. Strange.

Well, the end of another road trip that was super packed with walking and exploring. And vanilla slices. I highly recommend South Australia for road trips. It is not as busy as the east coast and you can get campsites in quiet places that are not too remote, but are away from the hordes who want to be near cafes and easy to view tourist points. I can’t wait to get out here again. Cheers. Aunty Frida.

The Great Vanilla Slice

One of the best things about travelling is bakeries! And in bakeries, there is almost always, a vanilla slice. I’ve been sampling quite a few, and have decided to put them all together as a reminder to myself of where i have eaten vanilla slices, and to let other travellers know what is on offer in vanilla slice heaven. Some are amazing, some are not so memorable. I will update and add these delicious creamy delights as I find and devour them. Yummm…

Ardrossan Bakery, SA

We stopped in Ardrossan for a quick lunch and the vanilla slices were packaged up 3 for $6 as they were yesterday’s. I decided to take the risk as they looked okay and was not disappointed. Creamy custard, not too soggy biscuit even though they were a day old but the icing was thick and stuck to the teeth somewhat. i could go a half but not a full one.

Yorketown Bakery, SA

The French Vanilla Slice offered at the Yorketown Bakery was a little messy to look at but it was very yummy. Smooth silky custard, the top biscuit was nicely crunchy, a rarity and very pleasing. Even though it slid off with the first bite i was not disappointed, just messy. I think the layer of cream was unnecessary and detracted from an otherwise delicious sweet. The jam was surprisingly complementary and although not usual i have to say i enjoyed it. The pink icing was not sickly as so often the case but more like a cupcake frosting, again not usual but it worked. Bottom biscuit not as good as the top but better than most.

Port Wakefield Bakery, SA

Hmmm. We tasted both French and Traditional. I forgot to take a pic of the traditional. The French biscuit was soggy and tasted a little stale. It had a really weird taste that overwhelmed the entire experience. The custard was sloppy, the icing sticky and sickly. Not at all a pleasant experience. The traditional had a nicer custard but the biscuit was the same soggy weird taste as the French. I wouldn’t go back. Disappointing.

Windara Bakery, Penola

I decided to go for the French vanilla version and he went for the traditional which i found a little cloying. The biscuit undercooked and soggy. Custard was creamy but devoid of flavour. Icing was okay. The French vanilla was lighter and had a pleasant texture. Biscuit was actually crunchy which was a nice surprise. The icing was light and i quite enjoyed my French vanilla version.

Kings Bakery, Hamilton

A traditional vanilla slice. I found them a little sugary and half was more than enough. Custard was not too bad. Sticky icing was a bit hard to swallow. Biscuit a little soggy. Very hard to eat without demolishing it. It fell away into its three separate parts with the first touch of the spoon.

Suttons Bakery, Moama

Although a little messy looking they tasted pretty good. Light fluffy custard and not too sicky icing. Biscuit a little undercooked.

Beechworth Bakery, Echuca

These babies tasted better than they look. I was surprised and happily so. Creamy custard, if not a bit yellow. The icing top wasn’t sickly and the biscuit cooked better than most.

The Loaf and Lounge, Camperdown.

Nice place for lunch. The vanilla slice had nice flakey pastry, although a little burnt and slightly bitter. The custard is super yellow and a little gluggy at first bite but actually worked well with the biscuit. The pink icing was a little strong in flavour, but much as the individual components were not 100%, they worked together and melded into a satisfactory sweet. Just don’t eat the bits separately.

Portland Visitors Centre Cafe.

An unexpected delight. I have no idea where they are baked but the vanilla slice was really good, (as was the citrus tart). Creamy, smooth, light in texture and flavour, although the biscuit was a little undercooked. Worth a stop to sit and enjoy the view of the harbour while enjoying a vanilla slice and a rather sculptural coffee.

Andy’s Bakery, Millicent.

These vanilla slices looked perfect. I was excited. But what a let down. The custard had a vaguely curdled texture, quite gluggy, and little taste. There was a slight chemical aftertaste i have never experienced in a vanilla slice before. The biscuit was average. So sad. Note: The donuts were awesome.

Robe Bakery Kingston SA.

They might look a bit sloppy, but they are possibly one of the nicest vanilla slice i have ever had the pleasure of eating. The biscuit was crunchy and flakey, the custard light in texture and taste. The only thing that lets it down is the addition of cream. Totally unnecessary, as was the chocolate splats on top. These only detracted from the otherwise delicious custard.

Beaufort Country Bakery. Smaller in size than most vanilla slices, this little delight was smothered in icing sugar that made eating it in the car somewhat tricky. The custard was smooth, not too sickly sweet and the pastry satisfactory. All in all, a nice treat.

Littles at Kingston by the Sea. Coconut sprinkled vanilla slice is a first for me, but it works. Easy to cut for sharing, the custard was very nice. Smooth and silky. The biscuit however was a little undercooked and soggy. shame.

Village Bakehouse Port Fairy. One of two bakeries in Port Fairy, the vanilla slice promised joy, but although assured they were baked daily, the pasty was a little soggy and i found the custard a bit gluggy. We shared the one piece and both felt half was more than enough.

Cobbs Bakery Port Fairy. One of two bakeries in Port Fairy, the vanilla slice is of the pink iced variety. Always dubious of the little pinkies delivering, the custard was creamy and light in texture, and although the pastry was hard to cut through, it has a rather nice taste. The thick pink icing fortunately was not sickly. Good job.

Stoneground Bakehouse Hurstbridge. Situated in a village style street, they have a good range of cakes, biscuits, breads and pastries at reasonable prices. The vanilla slice is of the more traditional Aussie style. The filling is smooth and silky but lack interest in flavour and has a slight chemical taste. The icing is a little sweet and sickly for my taste but hubby loved it. The biscuit not too soggy and cuts well. Although it holds together well, looks okay, it is not on my recommendation list.

The Malley Bakery, Ouyen. Cakes here are good. We have stopped a couple of times on the way to somewhere. Creamy smooth texture, and the icing is actually not sickening, even though it gives the appearance of sticky over sweetness. Definitely recommend the vanilla slice if you are passing though.

IMG_9754

Paul The Pieman, Inverloch. This is a great bakery. Their cakes are amongst the best i have eaten, and i have eaten a lot of them! Variety is brilliant. Their vanilla slice is rich and creamy. A true dessert, rather than a cuppa at morning tea.

Flinders Fish and Chips, Flinders. The Flinders Fish and Chips shop boasts the Guinness World of Records biggest vanilla slice 2012. And yes, it’s huge. At $11 a serve, it would easily feed four people. Two of us had a good go at it and couldn’t finish it. It is big, but it’s not the best in taste and texture. It’s a once only buy and try for me.

Pastry King Cafe Bakery, Daylesford. This was a shop that promised a superior sweet. Their bakery fare looked good, and was priced on the high side. We bought a selection to share and tasted. The vanilla slice was nice, a little super charged in presentation, but not extraordinary. It looked better than it tasted. Disappointed. Staff were a little discourteous to customers. Next time i will try some of the other bakeries.

Marysville Country Bakery, Marysville. This is a large bakery with heaps of choice. They don’t call their vanilla slice, a vanilla slice. They call it a ‘granny vanilla slice’. When i asked why, i was met with a confused look and the answer was, ‘that’s what we call them.’ We rushed back to our accomodation to give it a taste test with a glass of wine, as you do, and were a little disappointed in the grainy texture and hard to cut pastry. The taste was good, but degree of difficulty eating and texture left us not wanting to go back for more.

Bay Bakery Cafe – Jurien Bay WA. A busy little bakery in a little shopping strip, two versions of vanilla slice were on offer. Labelled Vanilla Slice, was a pink iced number that looked like a traditional no frills vanilla slice, but unfortunately the biscuit tasted a little burnt, or perhaps bitter is more accurate. The custard was somewhat gelatinous and lacking in richness, a little watery in taste. But i loved the pink icing reminiscent of grandma’s and country bakeries. The alternate was labelled Custard Slice. The pastry was much better, but the custard was grainy, disappointingly feeling like a packet mix fail. Both looked good, but let down in the taste and texture.

Wild Grains Bakehouse – Healesville Victoria This vanilla slice was a modest little surprise. Creamy and smooth, light in texture. The biscuit was a little hard to eat with a fork, but hubby sorted it by picking it up and taking bites without cutlery. The icing was as sticky and pink as you would expect a vanilla slice. Reasonably priced. I recommend you give these a try.

Port Fairy, Cape Bridgewater and surrounds.

The wind! Oh my. Is Port Fairy ever not ferociously blowy? We have visited five times, winter and summer and i have been blown to bits every time. In saying that, it is a very pretty town with lovely gardens and grass that creates an envy i find hard to control. It is very much worth a visit if you have not done so yet. There is copious accommodation available, in fact, i would love to know what percentage of the few blocks surrounding the main streets are rental vs owner occupier.

We chose to stay in the Penguin and booked a very reasonably priced and good sized super grassy site at Southcombe Caravan Park. This is indeed one of the nicest parks we have camped in. Going off season meant this huge park was practically empty, so it was quiet and super clean. The hedging throughout ensured excellent wind breaks and considerable privacy. Very pleasant.

Day one after a long drive from Melbourne, about four hours, we set up and headed for a walk around Griffiths Island. Super pretty at low tide. The colours of the sea were just beautiful. The walk is easy and and not long, but we walked from Seacombe park to make it a little longer and give our legs a good stretch before locking in for the evening away from the…wind…

The two walks take you to the light house.

And look out for these little fellows on the track.

The walks around Port Fairy are easy and the car can be left behind, even to go to the shops and cafes. The IGA is good. Fresh salads and precooked meals in the deli for those who don’t want to eat out but can’t be bothered with ingredients. The bottle shop was a bit of a let down, i was hoping for regional craft beers and wines but it was sadly disappointing. Two bakeries have adequate sweet bits and breads – we tried the carrot cake and vanilla slices from the bakeries, but the cakes were superior at Rebecca’s Cafe, sold from a cart on the street and packed into card boxes for easy carrying. They are pricey, but worth the extra dollars as the textures and flavours were really exceptional.

Birdlife is abundant. There are lots of waterways with walks around them. Wetlands offer birdwatchers plenty to keep them happy.

The Moyne River provides another short easy walk. Riverside accommodation and moored boats offer interest and a bridge allows a longer walk with access across the river and clean white sand beaches.

A short drive from Port Fairy is Yambuck Lake. There is a small caravan park tucked away in a very pleasant quiet spot for those wishing to avoid bustle…except when kids arrive to use the Yambuck Slide! We decided not to try the slide, preferring to avoid potential damage to our bodies, and instead enjoyed the walk to the mouth of the river. There was not much to see when we got there, but the walk itself was very pretty and recommended.

The Crags are just before Yambuck Lake. Interesting rock formations and blue blue water. A quick stop for a look is definitely recommended.

Cape Bridgewater was lovely. We will return to this beautiful area for a longer time, but we only had one day, and left wanting more. Around this amazing town is so much to explore. The seal colony is an easy walk most of the way, but does have a few steps and steep inclines that could make it difficult for people with impacted mobility.

We only saw two seals on our visit but they lolled about and entertained us for ages.

The Blow Holes were spraying high and the blue of the sea was brilliant. The access to the viewing platform is easy and we watched the spray hitting great heights for quite a while. Excellent view from way up high.

The petrified forest was our last peek at nature for the day. Stunning environment and i can’t wait to go back and walk more. The Great South West Walk is 200 kms long and provides ample well marked tracks that can be accessed from various points, including some of the tracks we followed.

And yet another lighthouse! But who can resist a lighthouse. This one was of interest to us as the Great South West Walk continued past it and off along the clifftops, disappearing into the distance. I would have loved to follow it further.

Special mention to the Bridgewater Bay Beach Cafe. Great food, great view of a beautiful beach, and wine and craft beer! The food was excellent and so nice to find good beers available for lunch. The cakes looked good too, but we were too full after lunch. Next time!

I was going to finish with the glorious Bridgewater Bay Cafe lunch, but on the way back to Port Fairy, we spotted the shoe fence, and had to stop for a photo. Be warned, it smells like sweaty old shoes!

Cheers.

Cervantes, WA.

A family wedding gave us the push to get on a place and fly across the country to the beautiful west coast, giving us a not exactly a taste of Western Australia, but rather a slight lick that triggered pangs of desire to get back as soon as we can, and again, and again. But for the first visit in many years, here is my first impression. Oh i wish i could have stayed longer and travelled further!!!

Landing early, we had heaps of time to get to our accomodation in Cervantes, so we made a couple of stops along the short two and half hours drive from Perth to Cervantes.

First stop was Yanchep National Park. A beautiful parklands with wetlands and lush grass. There are many easy walkways for those with mobility issues. Neat manicured gardens contrast with natural landscape. You need to purchase a pass to enter, as this is a national park. Fires have recently ravaged the area but there are beautiful green signs of regeneration amongst the blackened trees.

There are heaps of kangaroos, and roo poo is impossible to avoid. A koala enclosure makes viewing of the cute little fellows easy. I was told Koala’s are not native in WA. I was surprised to hear this.

Lunch was nagging at our empty bellies, we chose to check out Two Rocks. A town with quite a bit of influence from Alan Bond, who purchased land with the aim of building a theme park and a residential area, streets which were named after Yachts from the America’s Cup. Atlantis Marine Park was a huge area with Dolphin Pools and sculptures, some of which still remain. The park is lost in overgrown scrub, temptingly enticing us to try and break through the fencing that keeps people out. I peeked and peered, seeing decomposing sculptures, and left with a sense of loss that i couldn’t get close enough to see more of what was once there. King Neptune stands high above us, grinning at people who cannot get anywhere near his lost kingdom.

Lunch at Neptunes Cafe was good, the toasted bread crunchy and super delicious. Sitting outside the view over the little marina is lovely, and a small King Neptune keeps you company while you eat. Beware the huge crows, apparently they pick up and fly off with cutlery, l milk jugs, sugar packets and anything else they can lift.

The town of Lancelin boasts the Big Blue Chair. I had to stop and take a photo and add it to my blog on ‘Big and Quirky Aussie Things.’

Arriving in Cervantes, we were lucky enough to be upgraded to a very comfortable suite at the Pinnacles Edge Resort. Overlooking the main street, i can assure you, we had no issues with traffic noise. A walk around town was delightful. Many front yards had quirky artworks and sculptures that made for fun walks. Locals waved at us from cars and they yards as we passed, and several took the time for a chat.

Bougainvillaea and Frangipani were just beautiful. There were also bountiful banksia’s along the highway. The colours were extraordinary. This was at the end of February.

Cervantes is well known for its rock lobster fishing. The bay was full of lobster boats bobbing about in the water. We arrived when the area was under the influence of cyclones from further up north, but the wet weather did not detract from the beauty of the area.

Not every catch is a prize. These little fellows were sadly dumped at the end of the pier.

We drove to Jurien Bay and had to try the vanilla slices. My blog ‘The Great Vanilla Slice’ has the details…

One of the reasons i picked Cervantes as our destination was it offered some rather interesting places to visit. The stromolites at Lake Thetis were accessible via a flat path and boardwalk with a viewing platform. For those who need a walk, a sandy track circles the lake, but the flies are a nightmare!

It was extremely windy the day we were there, and the salty foam build up was thick and blowing all over us.

Jurien Bay Marine Park has firm packed sand. Many of the beaches in the area can be driven on. The clear water was incredible, shallow water warm and impossible to resist. We watched stingrays swimming past us as we stood shin deep in the water, ready to bolt if they came too near!

At this time of year, the balmy evenings mean fabulous evening beach walks.

The Pinnacles delivered much more than i expected. The landscape is incredible. I can understand why Billy Connolly was inspired to dance ‘nekked’. There is a marked walking track or you can drive through and stop in the many parking bays to get out and take photos. This is in the Nambung National Park and requires a pass. We purchased the five day pass which works out cheaper than paying per park entry.

Not dancing ‘Nekked!’

Birds on the beach.

Beach walking is pure joy on these pristine beaches. Not sure what this is, but it captured my interest.

Ooooh so pretty.

Our final night in Cervantes we had dinner at Cervantes Bar and Bistro. They serve a local ‘Pinnacles’ wine that wasn’t too bad. I chose two entree as a main which were very good. Prawns and Octopus. Very yummy, and came with a lovely crusty bread to dip in the delicious sauce under the tender prawns. The octopus was very tender. He who sat on the other side of the table chose the FOD? which i realised meant Fish Of the Day. This was a little disappointing. A serve of salmon with chips and salad as he didn’t want vegies set us back $44. A bit rich for a very basic meal. Shame, when my food was super.

On the way back south, i was once again struck by the incredible whiteness of the sand. I really am looking forward to coming back this way.

Next stop Joondalup for the wedding. We stayed at Joondalup Resort, a golf course and reception centre that is extremely busy. It’s a little dated but solid, with nice gardens and a great shower.

We had lunch at Overboard Cafe, Hilarys Boat Harbour which was a little grotty and very busy with families, not really a comfortable environment and it all felt a little grotty. Our shared platter was huge, but fatty and we felt a little erg afterwards. There were mainly chain eateries and very little of a decent quality. Great for families with little kids but i don’t recommend it for couples. the water play area in the harbour was popular, but again, it all just felt sticky and yucky and i wouldn’t have put my kids in that water. Saturday night we attended a rock’n’roll night with Let’s Rock on. A great night and well attended. Check out the ice bucket!

The wedding was both lovely and lively. The Macedonian church in North Perth is a beautiful building. A Serbian dance ensemble entertained us at the reception and it was a suitably joyous occasion with much dancing.

Back to Perth CBD for the last two days before we head back to Melbourne. We spent a couple of hours walking around Fremantle, 45 minutes of which was watching three tug boats turn a container ship and guide it out of the port to open sea. Pretty impressive.

We took a look at the round house, a gaol built in the 1830’s, the oldest building still standing in WA. Worth a visit, gold coin donation. The chaps at the door are a wealth of knowledge and tell a good story. The market didn’t ring my bell. But have a stroll through.

We chose to stay at Crowne Plaza because we had no idea where to stay, and you can’t really complain about the view, or the generous serves of bubbles, however, it getting a bit tired and shabby and the showers are in the bath with a swinging glass door to get in. Difficult if you are mobility impaired. A little overpriced and they take $50 per night bond!!! Seriously?

Walking the streets of Perth CBD. This alleyway was tour bus territory but still an interesting walk.

My fascination with plants and patterns keeps me happy.

And our last walk was through Kings Park. What a fantastic place to walk, experience incredible views and gardens, and just sit and enjoy the carpet of grass. Definitely a place everyone should visit when you come to Perth.

This poor Boab tree suffered when it was uprooted and delivered to its gaol in unfamiliar surrounds. Lots of pretty trees are however looking delightful.

A brilliant raised walkway.

And who doesn’t love waterways? Heaps of tadpoles.

And to finish off…more amazing plants. Check these little babies out. Really worth a visit.

WA you are a ripper and i can’t wait to get back.

Marysville, Victoria.

Marysville is a pretty town not far from Melbourne. We decided to stay at Vibes Hotel for New Years Eve 2019 and enjoy the beautiful surrounds. It was very quiet, surprisingly for New Years Eve.

We paid a decent price for a room with a balcony and a view? Hmmm.

Room with balcony view Vibes

Accomodation at Vibes was disappointing for the price we paid. The sitting room was badly designed with cheap and decidedly uncomfortable furniture. The whole place had a cheap feel about it, and a distinct lack of care for guests comfort. The pool was overcrowded with two families in it and definitely not appealing to couples. We will consider alternate options next time we spend a weekend in Marysville.

Not to be missed is the lovely walk up Steavenson Falls. It is by no means a difficult walk, the start is flat and easy access, although as it gets higher it becomes a little rocky, so not for those with mobility issues.

The car park is ticketed, but not expensive. People were handing over their unexpired parking tickets as they left, which was quite friendly. The public toilets were a little yucky.

Don’t disregard the ‘Beware of Snakes’ signs. They are all over the place. We saw one and people on the track sighted a second one a little further on.

Although the area has regenerated since the bush fires, there is still plenty of evidence of the dreadful fires in huge burnt out trees.

It is a really pretty place to walk.

I am a sucker for bakeries. The vanilla slice, which I believe they called something like a granny slice? I can’t remember exactly, looked good, held together well, but was a little grainy and rubbery, and lacked lightness. But, I am a bit of a vanilla slice nutter and have tried far too many on my travels. The Marysville Country Bakery certainly has plenty to choose from.

There is a rather nice caravan park along the sparkling shallow river that flows through the township. Families sit on chairs in the water watching their kiddies splash around. It’s not fancy, but has a friendly feel and is close to the IGA and pub.

They grow ’em big in Marysville. The trees, not the men…

I hate to bag places, but seriously, Radius Bar & Grill, the restaurant attached to Vibes was not a great night out. The Barramundi we ordered was very good, but the deserts were pitiful. I did let them know that at $16 each, they needed to review their sweet offerings and the waiter did take the cost of one off our bill, however, I had to request a clean glass, and felt like once again, the customer was purely for $$$ and they did not offer a dining ‘experience’ I could honestly recommend to other travellers. Breakfast in the cafe of the same business was not brilliant either. I recommend you try the bakery instead.

To finish out weekend, we went to Lake Eildon and had lunch at the Aqua Bar and Cafe. Book ahead in busy season, we were lucky enough to score the last bar table. The view is nice, staff friendly and efficient. Mostly fried food, but with a cold beer or wine, all good. The water was a great colour and heaps of people were enjoying their boats. I was extremely happy to see how clean the water was. And no rubbish lying about anywhere.

We drove through the Black Spur, which was looking beautiful. A lovely drive, gorgeous walks, and so close to Melbourne. Cheers.

Lightening Ridge via Ballina… August 2019

The Hume Highway, although a rather boring drive, is an easy way to cover km’s along the east coast if your need is to get from A to B as fast as possible. This road trip was the case of A to B, so we stayed in easy caravan parks and tried to fit in some less conventional roads and places to see on the way home. Big service stations provided coffee, fuel, snacks and toilets at regular intervals on the way up, but there is little to experience and contribute to a road trip. We prefer alternate roads and unexpected treasures of little known towns, but this trip, we had to knock of the km’s fast so it was hit the highway and head north.

First stopover on the way to the Northern coast of NSW, was Goulburn. It was dark and freezing as we set up for the night at Governors Hill Big4, and by golly, we set up in record time so we could head to the Hibernian Hotel for a smashing dinner. The porterhouse was beautifully cooked, the vegies were crisp and the baked whole spud creamy. A double glass of wine for only $10 was well appreciated and once we were fed, we started to relax a little. Hearty and simply tucker. Definitely recommend this pub in the main street for dinner. Very comfortable atmosphere, friendly and efficient staff. Perfect after a long boring drive.

The wind picked up overnight, gusts reaching 85kph. We held on in our little camper trailer and hoped we wouldn’t end up rolling down the hills of Goulburn. Feeling a bit blurry in the morning, we woke slowly and by the time we had finished brekky, the big rigs had moved out and our little Penguin stood forlornly alone. No complaints. It sure made it easier to hitch up and get out of the tight little caravan park. This park’s bathrooms are in need of updating, and a bit more serious cleaning wouldn’t go amiss. The camp kitchen however, was clean. There is a quiet lounge with a TV and the gardens are full of cute quirky things.

We hit the highway again, heading for another overnight stop around Port Macquarie. Sad to see the roadside verges post Goulbourn covered in litter. I’ve not seen it so grubby. What has happened in the past few years?… We had hoped to out drive the wind, but it followed us up the east coast, although abating slightly in strength. FYI, the M2 doesn’t have many road side stops past Goulburn for coffee, wee, or petrol, so be prepared.

The second rest night was at Bonny Hills Big4. A very nicely laid out park with lots of trees, heaps of shade, lots of grass, real and fake, and very friendly staff. This park has heaps of family things for kids, including a heated pool, games room, and a good book/DVD swap at reception. The amenities were soooo clean and fresh, with great showers. Tall palm trees create extra shade and look lovely amongst the gum trees. The staff put on movie nights for families but for us older folk who can leave their kids at home, it was still quiet and peaceful around the park.

Rainbow beach, accessible from the park was a pleasant surprise for a morning walk and well enjoyed before hitting the road for a third day long day of driving.

Skennars Head. NSW. Big4 Ballina Headlands Holiday Park.

Late on day three we finally arrived at our destination via Grafton and the iconic Big Banana.

Surrounded by palm trees, lush grass and huge McVansion’s, we were pretty happy with the clean, quiet grounds. Having only a small camper trailer, we were given a tucked away grassy spot among tall palm trees reserved for tents usually. The amenities were very clean, the pool really nice and lit at night, and there is a good area for kids. This park has permanent residents living in tidy gardens beyond the camp/caravan areas. Everything was very well maintained and tidy. The amenities even boasted a well lit makeup mirror with a sparkly plastic chair. Very cute. The park was directly under the flight path of Ballina airport, so there was lots of excitement every time a plane flew overhead. All activity stopped and eyes follow the arc of movement as graceful planes fly so low you could almost tickle their underbellies. As they disappear, people resume what they were doing.

Having finally arrived, we gratefully set up for a longer stay and visits with family in nearby Ballina. Opposite the caravan park is a great walk along surf beaches with beautiful clear blue waters. The fine sand is rimmed by dark, smooth rocks which skirt the bay. A grassy walk takes you up and follows the cliff tops, with views that wow. The colours are just beautiful. We were told the lookout at the top was notorious for jumpers, but despite the sad use, or should I say misuse of the area, the walk was still outstanding. Down the road we saw whales right from the car park at Sharpes Beach. Unbelievable.

The breezy weather turned sultry the next day and the increase in humidity was pleasant on our Melbourne winter skin. We finally began to relax. Byron Bay called for a revisit, it had been several years since we had been there, so we took off for a walk and lunch. The beach really is quite lovely, although rather rough today. I have seen it at its best, calm as a lagoon, with crystal clear water and big fish bumping into our legs. Today the fine clean sand was scattered with sun bathers but only a few cautious paddlers ventured into the water. It was still a wee bit cool for swimming.

The Beach Hotel Byron Bay remains unchanged. Well worn and bordering grotty, everything was sticky and yucky, yet nevertheless retains a certain ambiance that draws you back into its lay back relaxed atmosphere for a drink and unfortunately somewhat disappointing, feed. The indoor/outdoor environment is perfect on a balmy Byron day. The menu is very limited, I recommend sticking to the standard pub fare of fish and chips or burger. The pizza’s, cooked outside and supposedly wood fired looked somewhat unpalatable in my opinion and we decided against them after watching an older couple chewing without pleasure on a pale lifeless pizza. Stick to a beer/wine and burger/fish and chips meal and you won’t be disappointed. Beware the parking. It is $4 per hour for a maximum of 4 hours unless you park away from the main centre. Which we did.

We took an afternoon drive to Nimbin between family visits via the Bangalow Road, driving through Macadamia plantations and dense lush forests. It was a beautiful drive, tree ferns dripped from captive trees. Dark, dense, overhanging canopies contrasted with deep valleys of incredibly green rolling hills. Just out of Nimbin, we were stopped by a chap waving cars down. We stopped in time to avoid running over a large snake lying across the road. The creature was about two metres long and quite thick. The fellow stood over it and coaxed it into fighting position, then grabbed it just under the head and lifted it high off the road. He swung it at shoulder height and tossed it into the long grass at the side of the road, as we squealed and watched from our car. He then waved, hopped into his ute and everyone continued on their way as if this was normal practice. Arrggh..

Nimbin is a colourful town, but sadly full of trashy shops bursting with repetitive clothing, bags and bits and bobs of useless stuff. It is a shame there were not more handcrafts, artworks and bakeries to encourage tourists to stop longer and purchase something to support the community. It is a pretty place to spend a few hours with good coffee and cakes, but the tacky shops bring down the feel of the town and make it feel like a bit of a sham. Good coffee and cake, although the cakes are quite pricey. I think the locals might have an issue with the boys in blue…

Ballina

For dinner the following night we purchased fresh fish from the Ballina fish shop. They have an amazing array of fish and shellfish of all varieties on sale direct from ice packed boxes. Most of the fish are whole. Very little was filleted. Well worth a visit. They do fish and chips as well if you don’t want to cook.

A visitor passing through the park.

The Ballina breakwater is a great walk. It is a surprisingly long walk, going all the way out to the heads, complete with markers telling the history of the area. We saw large fish jumping clear out of the water in the lagoon type ponds at the start of the walk, and sat watching boats battling the entrance at the heads. Give yourself time to do this walk.

And of course, you can’t not marvel at the giant Prawn. He’s a ripper.

Lennox head is a beautiful beach with firm sand. Excellent for a long walk. The town is pretty, and quiet, a touch classier than Byron Bay with its all too obvious bogan element shuffling around. However, it was off peak season while we were there, possibly a little busier in summer methinks. There are several good cafes to have a coffee and while away some time, and there is free two hour parking. It is less frenetic than Byron Bay, and definitely more relaxed and clean. I recommend it as an alternative place to stay.

Point Cafe, Lennox Head

The pelicans were a delight to watch. I took about a zillion photos.

Having time to drive home at a slower pace, we were pleased to avoid the highway and see more of the country on our way to Lightening Ridge. We headed inland from Ballina via Lismore, a large town with some fantastic architecture, old style Queenslander type houses, Californian bungalows, with lots of stained glass windows. It was quite interesting and unexpected.

We crossed the great divide and headed to Lightening Ridge, via Casino and Tenterfield. The road was windy and very uppity and high in the sky. We stopped at Tenterfield for cake and coffee and stumbled on Deepwater Brewing. ‘Beer Brewed with Altitude,’ an unexpected gem with a great range of beers. I recommend a stop. The bar is comfortable and the beers are great. They are only open Friday to Saturday. Check their website for details.

This area is soooo dry. We were truly subdued by the dust and lack of anything green on the ground.

An overnight stay at Inverell Caravan Park and dinner at the Australian Hotel. It was pretty quiet around town, and the big pub was almost empty. There is a walk into town which we took, but I got a bit spooked by the lack of people around. The meal was pretty basic and the menu limited, but with nothing much open, it was okay for a feed and then back to our well stocked fridge for an early night in. The amenities are amazing. As good as some five star motels! Very modern.

We drove through Maree, just because I wanted to see the site of the pool that was featured in the 1965 Freedom Ride protest. It is now a huge complex with indoor/outdoor artesian pools and children’s play areas. I didn’t see any obvious references to the issues that faced our indigenous community and felt quite sad at what they had to endure. We stopped for lunch at the Royal Hotel and were gob smacked by the size of the serves.

Lightening Ridge

Lightening Ridge has a much calmer feel than Coober Pedy. The Opal caravan park is very big, with generous sites, several camp kitchens, nightly entertainment, (which can get on your nerves if you are there a few nights), and a small but adequate pool attached to one of the outdoor kitchens. Amenities are immaculate and the staff friendly.

The Artesian bore pool is only a short walk down the road. The water is seriously hot. I could barely put my feet in, there was no way I could put my whole body in. I don’t know how people sit in it, but it was very peaceful sitting on the edge and looking at the little bubbles and the colour. We were lucky that there were very few people around.

We felt very relaxed at Lightening Ridge Opal Park. Although it is very popular and quite busy, no one is in your face. There is a pit fire set in the centre of a lush patch of grass that is watered daily. Each evening as sun sets it is lit, and people sit around with a drink to chat and share stories. There was music in the pavilion and several couples danced each evening, but by 9pm the music stopped, silence fell over the park, and everyone drifted away. It was quite funny, but the silence was golden indeed and we had a good night’s sleep every evening.   

The Lightening Ridge Market is not really brilliant. One row of overpriced dusty opals and one row of assorted stalls. It was really just a five minute walk through without being tempted to purchase anything.

There are several well marked drives from Lightening Ridge that help you discover what the area is all about. We followed the Red Door Drive which is short and close, just out of town. Red car doors guide you through dusty unmade roads which wind around miners claims. It is interesting to see how they live. The accommodation is temporary and basic. Lots of old caravans and shacks, but it has a residential feel regardless of the dust and dried up bushes and trees that are almost the same colour as the white soil.

Amigo’s Castle is well worth stopping and paying the $5 entry fee to hear the story of its creator and see the construction which was hand built and unfortunately may never be completed.

Back at the campsites, beer o’clock starts early. Sitting in the shade of the awnings, retired couples sip from stubby holders and gaze into the distance. Not much talking goes on, but everyone looks content. It doesn’t take long for us to fall into their patterns. But at 4.30 on the dot, the peace is broken by Mel and Sue, the evening entertainment. Microphones ensure we can hear every word from our campsite, whether we wish to or not… An hour of ‘Aussie’ humour from this comedy duo keeps the old people cackling in the pavilion, by day three I am quoting verbatim most of their show. It set my teeth on edge. It’s a great park but the raucous laughter shattered my tranquillity.

After the evening entertainment was over however, sitting around the camp fire at night was a friendly affair. Tales of travels, van comparisons, home town descriptions, and what what we had seen on road trips was shared and commented on with good humour. We were lucky to score a jolly bunch with interesting back grounds, and all were embracing of each other’s differences.

After an enjoyable stay in Lightening Ridge, we headed off, taking the bumpy road between Lightening Ridge and Walgett. We stopped at Gunnedah for coffee and wee at McDonalds, which was actually very clean and not horrible at all, then on to Narrabri for lunch at Watson’s Bakery. Very good cakes and reasonably priced freshly made sandwiches. 

It was very dry country until we got close to Mt Kaputar, and then everything greened up and was quite pretty. Colourful cows contentedly grazed in verdant paddocks, so different to the parched land leading up to this beautiful area.

We stayed overnight at Big4 Paradise Tourist Park, Tamworth. I wanted to stay longer but unfortunately time was against us. This trip was a bit unplanned and rather too much driving. The camp kitchen is huge and comfortable. A nice indoor fire is lit for the cool evenings, with plenty of tables and chairs, comfy couches and the BBQ’s extend along the pool with outdoor seating and enclosed playground. A small stage with a grassy clear area must be wonderful for music on summer evenings. One would expect as much in Tamworth! This park is also walking distance from a supermarket. A great location for the music festival.

Take the time to drive, or walk if you are fit, to the lookout over Tamworth. We watched the sun go down and the lights go on. Lovely.

Tamworth from the top!

Crossing back over the great divide to Port Stephens we chose to follow secondary roads instead of the highway, so we had a pretty drive with very little traffic through places like Niangala. Pine forests are plentiful and it is extremely green. We chucked a right turn on to Thunderbolts Way, an intriguing name and were not disappointed. We hit altitudes over 1300 metres. My ears were popping. I had a cold, and felt pain.  One part of the road was 6km’s of steep descent, the brakes were red hot and smelled fried by the time we levelled out again. This is not a road for McVansion’s. Small tows only. I recommend giving this road a go, it is amazing and worth the panic on the steep bits. There are some incredible views and fun driving for those who want to ‘drive’.

Karuah is a small town with a pretty, but rickety jetty that had me worried I would fall through, but so enticing I kept going back for another walk. An area ideal for boating and fishing, and there are plenty of oysters in these waters. A local co-op sells shucked and unshucked, as well as fresh local prawns. Not cheap, but fresh.

The caravan park is well equipped for families and has permanent cabins. The rental cabins are clean and modern, camp sites are nice and grassy. There is also a coffee cart that opens in the mornings. The park was full of nomads in large vans set up for long stays, good for people who want to hop in a tinny and go fishing.

This is not a swimming part of the coast. The enclosed swimming area in town is a bit too yucky in my opinion. Bird life is full on, noisy and constant. The mangroves are pretty but the boardwalk is falling apart and blocked for walking towards the end of it.

Really beautiful sunsets.

We had a good rest at karuah and didn’t do much. The op shop in town has heaps of very cheap books at fifty cents each of you buy an armful. Perfect for a chilling out. We had dinner at the local RSL. Lot’s of Chinese food on the menu which I found surprising.

Just as we started to absorb the tranquillity, time began to run out and we had to head south. It has become a bit of a ritual to stop at Wollongong for lunch whenever we are in the vicinity, me being a child of the area, and we decided to do the Sea Cliff drive and enjoy a bit of scenery. Getting through the outer Sydney suburbs traffic however, was horrific and nerve wracking, but the coastal road is worth going through the torture as it is really pretty, curving through lovely towns perched on the hillsides overlooking the sea.

Lunch was at Steamers, overlooking Main Beach. We stop at this venue each time we pass through and I don’t think it has had the same name twice in a row, but the food and beer/wine has never let us down. Love a shared nibbles lunch. And the view is good over a long relaxed lunch. Ask for a window seat, or sit on the terrace if the weather is warm enough.

Next stop was Huskisson, a favourite town we have often stayed in, and I am pleased to report it is still lovely. The walk into town is well lit at night and the book swap shelf is still outside the bookstore. I love this. The bottle shop staff are friendly and enjoy a chat about craft beers.  I have covered Huskisson in a previous blog so please go and check it out. We stayed at Huskisson Beach caravan park. Good grassy sites. They are in the process of renovating the amenities (August 2019) and check out these ironing tables in the laundry!! The beaches and waterways are truly beautiful.

We stopped in Narooma for a lunch stop. I have always loved the beautiful waterways and the colours are amazing, however, I was shocked to feel the shabbiness that seems to be taking hold of the town. I don’t remember it being like this a few years ago. The caravan park in the Main street right on the water looked uncared for, and we walked into three bakeries looking for freshly made sandwiches and couldn’t find any. They had all been made in the morning and wrapped in plastic film and my request for fresh sandwiches was actually met with puckered face responses. I had wonderful memories of a previous trip with my sister, (you can see in one of my earlier blogs) and was so disappointed. We purchased two awful pies and headed out of town, disappointed that we couldn’t even find a public spot to sit and enjoy lunch. The pies were seriously the worst I have ever eaten. Gluggy pastry, tasteless gluey meat. A waste of calories!

A cold front had hit and it was freezing in Narooma, so back on the road to try and out run it. We were happy to find the wonderful Heritage bakery in Milton on the way to Merimbula and stopped for a coffee and delicious pasty and cake. Oh my, soooo yummm. And the sun shone!

Merimbula’s pristine waterways are as beautiful as I remembered. We hadn’t been here for years, and I was chuffed to see the clarity of the water. We set up at Tween Waters Big4. The park is a little dated in the amenities, but spacious and quiet out of season. Hubby enjoyed the low flying planes coming and going from the airport. We arrived in time for a glorious sunset and dinner!

Arriving late and tired, we decided on dinner at the RSL which is very large but filled quickly on a Saturday night. Book, or get there early! By 6.30 every table was full. We got there just before 6 o’clock and got one of the few tables left. I saw others in line behind us turned away. The servings are huge. Neither of us could finish our meals. Wine was also large serves and very reasonably priced. Needless to say, I can understand why it is so popular. The staff were friendly and extremely efficient. This is a well oiled machine! It is however a bit noisy, with raffles being constantly called over the top of chatting diners. It would be nice to remove the gambling from the eating areas. Big TV screens keep rolling and were somewhat irritating. But it’s a good feed, although an eat and get out quick scenario unless you are partial to a gamble.

The next morning, we were assaulted by the local birds during breakfast. They knew no fear.

Merimbula to Melbourne was a long and boring drive and back to the cold weather…

Cape Schanck

Cape Schanck RACV Resort proved to be a comfortable relaxed space to celebrate a long over due anniversary celebration. We have a room on the fourth floor with a sea view. The weather was sadly too cold to enjoy the balcony but we will return in warmer!

The resort caters to adults and families with kids. there is a very clean indoor lap pool and a great outdoor playground. However, I recommend for adults without children, it is best to visit during the week as it is much quieter and the terrific pool and gym are virtually empty. Breakfast on weekdays was peaceful with plenty of choice of good tables with views over the golf course. Come Friday afternoon the families roll in and Saturday morning the breakfast area was chaos.

The cool weather meant looking at the view from indoors while sipping cocktails and nibbling on shared plates of rather nice meze.

When the sun shone, we took advantage of the boardwalk for an easy walk with gorgeous views. There are a lot of stairs, so not really for any one with mobility issues. There are so many great walks around which we have perviously enjoyed, but sadly the weather this time deterred us from venturing out much. All good, it means we will return!

He who runs up stairs while I huff and puff bonded with the lighthouse in their matching beanies.

The sparkling water was really lovely. The wind was dreadful. Take a snug beanie, my hat was useless.

I love the tiles in the resort lifts…

Sunsets from ocean view rooms were rather lovely.

Unfortunately, not far away in Flinders is the Guiness Book of Records largest Vanilla Slice. Naturally I couldn’t resist. Two of us couldn’t finish one serve, but we gave it a jolly got shot.

Daylesford.

Dear Darling Designer Daylesford. Hmmm. Much like Venice, your pretty streets, bars and cafes quieten as afternoon rolls into early evening and day trippers pack their perfectly co-ordinated children into cars with prestige branding, and head back to the city.

OK, so not all of the cars in town were prestige…

The bustle of elbowing through ‘late in life’ parents pushing prams the size of a small car is exhausting for empty nesters of the same age, like us. I shudder at greying papa’s trying ever so hard to understand a toddler’s tantrum or wiping drool from a sleeping infant while beautifully groomed mama’s clutching designer monogrammed bags of apparel, desperately seek a wine and ancient grain salad.

Having taken the camper trailer for our mini long weekend break, we were fortunately able to escape the puffy jacket brigade and have quiet sessions in a peaceful, if not exactly inspiring caravan park. If, however, you prefer bustle and want to eat and shop without driving, there are countless B&B’s to stay in. This is a town for the visitor to stay, eat, drink and shop. Full of beautifully appointed shops and a multitude of eateries.

The Daylesford Holiday Park certainly has not been updated in the last decade at least. Although tidy, the shabby onsite shacks with retro aged, but not restored vans attached, are covered in dust, lattice or plastic café curtains to keep out the weather. Our powered site was interesting. The grounds keeper supplied an extension cord! Water was courtesy of a hose. Needless to say, we used our own water supply and left his hose coiled under the monolithic pine tree we were parked beneath, fearful of the overhanging branches the size of a train carriage coming down and crushing us like an aluminium beer can, and obscuring any hope of sunshine on a chilly Autumn day.

I may be sounding a little negative, usually my travel declarations are happy and full of love for where I have been and what I have seen. Perhaps my expectations of a pretty country town with lovely walks were somewhat dashed by the hordes of people cramming into cafes and shops. It felt like a miniature metropolis. There were lots of pretty walks, gorgeous buildings and parks, they were just extremely crowded. The botanical gardens are quite lovely, with a look out tower. Cars can drive through.

The caravan park was a good place for an overnight stop on the way to somewhere else, but it felt a little gloomy, drab and lacklustre for a longer stay. Perhaps I misjudged the towns tourist capacity, it’s been over thirty years since I last visited Daylesford, rather a lot has changed and improved, but personality has dissolved with the upgrade in facilities. The Daylesford Convent has some historical charm and art on display but charges admission to venture past the cafe.

Okay, the good points. For those who want to get out of Melbourne for somewhere nice to lunch and stroll the shops, and don’t want a long drive, it’s perfect. B&B overnight weekend, also perfect. The choice of places to eat are many and of quite a good standard. Bakeries are plentiful, Knick Knack shops, local wines and craft beers, and shop after shop for hours of browsing through ‘vintage’ treasures. (Ummm, sifting through trash and treasure crap at highly inflated prices.) These ‘retro’ market places are essential for killing time if the weather is inclement. So, they do serve a purpose other than promise a unique find.

For walkers, there are some decent hills to get your heart rate soaring and beautiful views from many parts of the town, although a lack of footpaths was an issue , we had to dodge a lot of SUV’s.

Must be a few sinners in town going by the number of churches.

Autumn can be sunny, warm, drizzly and cold. We had all facets of weather in the three days we spent in Daylesford. The leaves had turned their fiery pre-winter colours and the ground was blanketed in russet hues, thick and crunchy below trees that would cast cooling shade in hot summers and allow warming sunlight to shine through naked branches in cooler months. I have to admit, I did my share of kicking up leaves as we walked. Irresistible.

CLUNES

Clunes is only a short drive away, and worth doing. Renowned for its book festival, it is a lovely town with beautiful old buildings in very good condition. Renovations and restorations are evident as original buildings are rendered usable without destroying the ambiance of the town’s main street. Although a tiny town compared to Daylesford, there are still plenty of choices for a coffee and cake, or lunch. Walking around the town is quite lovely, with interesting cottages and gardens to enjoy.

The drive is through pretty countryside, although we did miss a turn on the way back and ended up on a road quite reminiscent of the Oodnadatta track, and met some overly curious cows with rather loud moos.

We were lucky to score sunny, if not terribly warm weather on arrival, although the clouds rolled in and rain began to fall intermittently, but we felt cosy in our Penguin camper trailer and munched on cheese and delicious bread we had bought from the Himalaya Bakery in Daylesford. The baker hand sliced the loaf for us, for which I was very grateful, and I am very glad we walked into his bakery as the bread was delicious and toasted beautifully for breakfast the next day.

The Daylesford Lake promised old time grandeur but it needs a jolly good tidy up.

There are some mineral water pumps, a decent walk around the lake, but it was terribly scruffy. We didn’t bother with tea at the Boat House Cafe as it was overflowing toddlers and mum’s due to a large play ground and masses of ducks. Great for mums of little ones. I loved the birds but they are obviously used to people as they had no fear and come looking for handouts.

We checked out the Hepburn Spa mineral springs. A nice walk, but it was freezing when we got there. We couldn’t check out the pool as it was hidden from public view, but there are a serious of pumps which we didn’t taste the waters from. If there was water flowing it would have been quite pretty, but it has been dry, so hopefully they will get some rain and fill the waterways this winter.

The Chocolate factory captured us. We picked out 10 chocolates. which cost almost $30. Beware if you have kids with you.

In summary. Daylesford is great for those who like to eat out and shop in a pretty location away from Melbourne. I recommend the B&B option for an overnight stay. It’s not however, for travellers who enjoy camping in seclusion. And beware the pubs, they look like pubs from the outside, but inside they are sterile pokies environments. Although this menu was amusing.

I fell in love with this doggy and his ever so practical but not terribly cool jumper. He made my day. Love him.

Cheers.

Cape Conran

Evenings at Cape Conran Banksia Bluff camp ground are a gorgeous thing. As the sun sets, fires dot the campsite and campers sidle up to the fabulous BBQ plates that swing out over glowing fire pits. The smell of cooking permeates the air and a feeling of peace settles even the rowdiest of kids.

We were fortunate on our first visit to Cape Conran to score a windless, sunny Autumn long weekend. Sitting outside late into the night was idyllic to say the least.

The beach is not particularly safe for swimming, but many were trying to fish, and surfers bobbed in the waves. Wet suits are needed for the bracing chill of the water. This beach provides a beautiful walk for those who are not enticed into the furious waves. East Cape beach is a little less ferocious and there were quite a few families in the water, although still mostly in wet suits. Definitely boogie board and body surfing territory.

Banksia Bluff camp ground is divided into dog friendly sites on the right and no dogs on the left. Families seemed to have congregated mainly in the centre area and the left end seemed to have mainly childless groups and couples, although this may have been a coincidence at the time we were there. There were very few caravans, this is very much a tent camp ground, vans would struggle to fit unless small and easy to manoeuvre. There is no power, and no fresh water, only bore water not suitable for drinking. BYO clean water! Toilets are septic and flushing, which is a bonus, but showers are outdoor cold bore water only.

The atmosphere for the four nights we were there was friendly, relaxed and quiet. No loud music or screaming kids. Every one was happily chilled out. Perhaps having no mobile coverage or internet worked magic and people chatted and snoozed around their fires.

Beach walking from Banksia Bluff camp ground.

Early morning joggers messing up the sand.

Sailors Grave has a boardwalk with views of rocky coastline. Although not a taxing walk, it is not suitable for those with mobility issues. There is a bit of rock hopping and the lower steps are quite steep due to erosion.

Low tide.

Salmon Rocks at low tide provides opportunity for clambering over boulders and peering into rock pools. The beach here is relatively safer and much more populated. Wear good gripping shoes if you intend to climb. I fell off a rock and bruised more than my ego.

Endless photographic opportunities.

Shells. Shells. Shells. Skipping stones.

Yeerung River estuary has a calm swimming area. Great for families. Lots of Esky’s and blow up floaty toys and canoes scattered the sand and water, a colourful scene reminiscent of a work place picnic. You have to drive to this location and parking is limited.

Inverloch…Andersons Inlet

Totally amazing at low and high tide. Andersons Inlet.

I had heard about Inverloch for years, but never ventured to this incredible place. After one visit to Andersons Inlet, I was hooked and it is now a regular place for time out. Even more so, for being an easy drive and reasonably close to Melbourne.

The first time I checked out Inverloch/Andersons Inlet, we stayed at the Big 4 caravan park. Now, while this is a great park for families with young kids due to the amazing water park, it was a bit noisy and crowded for us middle aged empty nesters, so we stay at the foreshore caravan park, run by the Big 4 office, but much quieter, with new amenities. Beach access is easy from this area. And the grassy sites are beautiful.

I love this water wonderland. The low tides allow for miles and miles, (or kilometres for the young people) of walking. In the heat of summer, at low tide groups of people lounge in shallow pools between sandbars in bath water warm clear water. High tide means easy swimming. The sand is clean, no rocks and very little seaweed. You really have to see for yourself. This is a great environment for all ages.

I have been told by locals and regular visitors the pier is used for jumping in to the sea at high tide, and that there are heaps of sting rays reside below. I don’t think I could be persuaded to fling myself in…

High tide at the pier can be a little scary.

Townsend Bluff estuary walk is an easy stroll. So beautiful. We did the walk along the path and then hit the beach for the return.

Take a moment to stop on the bridge and look in the water. We saw jelly fish in the seaweed and spent ages watching them.

The massive expanse of sand at low tide had billions of little crabs scuttling about and there is no shortage of birdlife in the area.  

Dotted along the beach, everyday there were new drift wood constructions appearing. So cute.

Bakery Bliss! Paul the Pieman had really good bakery products. I walked into town everyday, and came back with a bag of yummy cakes, bread or pastries. Not good for weight loss, but it sure put a smile on our faces. And the IGA had ridiculously good homemade salads.

I can’t help myself. I love taking photos of stairs.

Low tides are amazing.

Beautiful sunrise.

And incredible sun sets.

Patterns in the sand. It really is a stunning place. I love patterns.

Only 13km’s away, Cape Paterson offers a great walk with rock pools and incredible rock formations. Well worth a day trip, and there a few stops along the way with viewing platforms. Get out and have a look. It’s worth it. Some of the views are as impressive as the Great Ocean Road.

Walking along the coastline Cape Paterson. Wear good shoes as the rocks are really sharp.

Scary!

From Venus Bay you can access Andersons Inlet from the opposite side. A short pretty walk takes you to the waters edge, which is more a fishing area than swimming. The coastal flora was blooming and beautiful and strangely we saw a fig tree on the path.