Road Trip

South West WA – Crossing the Nullabor to Perth -Peaceful Bay, Bremer Bay, Esperance.

Posted on March 25, 2025July 14, 2025 by Frida

The first two or three days of any roadtrip are wind down days. Leaving Melbourne’s routine and horrid traffic instantly begins the release of calm. Tension eases the further we roll along roads through tiny towns that delight us when we take breaks to walk the main street and peer into shop fronts. The km’s roll by and dreary overcast weather is soon replaced by the blue sky unfolding ahead of us.

Lunch at our first stop is in Dimboola. An iconic town with a charming partially restored main street. So glad to see they have retained the beautiful tiled shop fronts. A very pretty town and well worth the short 3km drive off the highway. Check out the awesome dresses.

First overnight stop is Coonalpyn, one of the silo art towns. We stayed in a council run park alongside a very inviting public pool – super clean and heated to 25 C. The campsite was $15 for 24 hours, power generated by tap of a credit card. Good hot showers are an extra $5 for 5 minutes – also by credit card tap. It was an extremely easy peaceful stop., although there are a lot of cockatoo’s making a racket morning and evening. We would stay here again. Had to hug this magnificent tree.

We woke to a sensational morning but there were signs in the air of the heat wave to come. A long day of driving ahead so we reluctantly packed up and left our peaceful site. Lunch was our regular stop at Port Wakefield SA. The little inlet is a quiet place to sit and relax – with a clean toilet nearby. Afternoon break was pretty Port Germein. We usually bypass this town but were so glad we decided to check it out. It is very pretty and has an awesome super long pier. Lucky to arrive at low tide and catch the beautiful patterns in the sand. We will remember this town for future road trips. The CV Park is right on the beach.

Back on the road we are reminded to beware as emu’s and goats appear at random intervals. We finally arrive at Kimba Roadhouse, another silo art town and home of the giant galah which has been repainted since we were last here. The roadhouse restaurant offers Indian food to weary travellers. The curries smelt wonderful but we decided to make our own dinner due to what was sitting in the bain marie looked a bit tired at the late hour of our arrival. We set up quickly and set to work scrubbing gazillion’s of splattered bugs off our car. Big red juicy critters which left an almighty greasy mess. The amenities are a bit shabby at the roadhouse but water flow in the showers is hot and strong. Seniors discount came to $31.50 for the night.

After a leisurely breakfast we hit the road again, choosing to check out Streaky Bay for lunch as we had never been there. Disappointingly the only bakery in town was closed on a Saturday morning. Have to admit, we were a little underwhelmed. The town and beach front did not inspire me. There is a tiny swimming enclosure at the beach, it feels far to small in such a huge bay. I don’t think i would bother to return, too many other prettier towns have won my heart.

As we approached Penong for our third overnight stop the wind kicked in. Great clouds of dust swirled and danced in dusty barren fields. Fortunately the Penong CV Park is reasonably sheltered and by nightfall it started to settle. We set up quickly so we could take a look at the Pink Lake before it got dark. Sadly the overcast sky meant not a sparkle or colour was visible to delight us. Definitely no pink!

We had a lovely sleep in but it meant we were running late in the morning and i was determined to see the pink lake in the sunshine in the hope it would be a little more impressive. By the time we got there, the sun had clouded over agian and although there were some interesting salt formations, the colours were not happening. Never mind. I’ve seem some brilliant salt lakes. Can’t win ’em all.

The amenities at Penong CV Park are good. Excellent water pressure in the showers and toilets super clean. The huge camp kitchen is a ripper! And we met Blue. Awesome dog. Off we drove after a quick look at the windmill museum.

A quick stop at Ceduna for a break and walk on the pier. I cannot resist a pier. Heaps of feisty crabs were being caught.

I recommend The Head of Bight viewing centre. Even when it is not whale season the view is worth a squizz. It cost $8 each for seniors entry and there are clean drop dunnies and a cafe. The colours of the sea and the cliffs are spectacular. I’ve been lucky to be there twice and see it in full sunlight brilliance – once during whale season which was incredible. There are a few other places to view the Bunda cliffs and we stopped to look from the other direction. It was just as brilliant if you prefer not to pay to view. This area can be extremely windy but we were lucky to have calm weather. It really is stunning. The phone camera cannot capture the detail and colour of the cliffs.

Another loooong day of driving meant arriving at Cocklebiddy just in time to order a meal at the restaurant. Lamb chops and veggies for me and fish and chips for him. He got the better deal. My lamb chops were all fat with about a teaspoon of edible meat. The Fish & Chips came with a fresh salad that even included a boiled egg! My veggies were a little – a lot actually – overcooked and washed down with a mini bottle of acetone labelled as white wine. Ah well, so it goes with travel. You never know what you will get. Just a couple of little hints about Cocklebiddy roadhouse, don’t park close to the amenities or near Samantha and Bruce the rescue eagles. The generator ain’t quiet, and you need $2 coins for the showers @$4.

Back on the road for another six and a half hours drive to Kalgoorlie. Although it is an iconic and exciting drive, it does get tiring. Balladonia Roadhouse for lunch. An interesting experience. The ladies serving were soooo rude and foul tempered. They had all of us travellers creeping around apologetically even though we hadn’t done anything to to annoy them other than order food and drink. They muffed up our sandwich order but we just shut up and meekly ate what we were given. I saw another couple stare suspiciously at the two rolls dumped on their table with great force. So funny. They must have trained at Fawlty Towers. Diesel here was $2.30 per Ltr. We saw $2.44 somewhere else, i can’t remember where so fill up whenever you see a ‘reasonable’ price.

The Nullarbor Wave. If you can’t beat ’em. Join ’em. It’s nice to be friendly.

We finally hit Norseman. Too hot to even consider a walk we had a wee, bought an ice cream and jumped back into the air conditioned car to arrive at Kalgoorlie and a balmy 39 C just as the sun was setting. Thank goodness the Penguin has a good air conditioner. It was appallingly hot outside. We cooled off for a couple of hours before heading to Woolies to do a shop, tip toeing around a bunch of boozers lounging on the pavement outside the bottle shop right next to the supermarket entrance. A bit unnerving but they kept to themselves. Over homemade burgers and an ice cold zero beer back in the blessed air conditioning, we searched desperately through all of the CV Park’s in Perth. We had totally missed the fact it was a long weekend in WA. We couldn’t find anywhere to sleep for the three nights we intended to stay in Perth. In desperation we tried motels but only dubious rooms were available at exorbitant prices and we had to find one which had space to park the van. It was late and things were looking dire so with travellers optimism we went to bed with the aircon blowing hoping the issue would resolve itself in the morning. Happy to say the amenities at Kalgoorlie CV Park are extremely good. Hot, steady water flow. Very clean. Very thankful.

Morning in Kalgoorlie – 7.48am – 28 C. It’s going to be a scorcher. No morning walk. We pack up, sweating as the heat steadily increases and head out of town. First stop is Southern Cross. It is already 36 C before midday. We did not expect these temperatures. Our very short walk was helped by the blasts of cool air escaping from shop doorways, as cold as a knife slice on our sweating skin. Quickly in the car and onto the Great Eastern Highway – which goes on and on and on…and on. We do indeed live in a big country.

As a result of the impossibility of acquiring three nights in Perth (we managed to get two) we had to make an unexpected halfway stop at Bruce Rock. What a great decision to stop at this pristine little town. I skipped with glee on our arrival. Patches of lush green grass, palm trees and rows of tidy newly built little cabins. Everything is immaculate. Amenities are sparkling clean individual ensuites, a real luxury on the road. There is a large camp kitchen and it is set alongside a very nice public pool. It is super quiet and peaceful. The main street of town is clean and fresh. The newly built supermarket is terrific and stocked with all manner of things as well as food. At $34 per night i couldn’t recommend it more highly as a great overnight stop. It is a bit off the beaten track but if you are heading to Perth and want a rest it is worth the little detour.

After a stop at Quairading for coffee we finally hit the busy streets of Perth and checked in at Karrinyup Waters Resort. The driving has got to us and we are in desperate need of still time. We are super tired. This is one enormous park. A caravan village. Rows and rows of vans. A giant van car park. It has a very peculiar feel. People sitting tucked under their awnings in tiny little spaces staring at nothing. I found it a bit spooky. Despite the nice gardens and planted borders it is soulless. It had an intense ‘trailer park’ vibe. It is so huge we couldn’t even find the pool and had to resort to the map to find it. I am a bit dumbfounded as to why people holiday here. There is a pool and cafe but most are sitting beside their vans and that’s all they seem to do. There are not sufficient amenities for the numbers of sites. The few cubicles of unisex ensuites grossed me out even though they were quite modern and new. Too many people sharing them. I did have a swim which was quite nice. The pool area is large. Dinner was with our Perth cousins. So nice to see them again. The family connection is strong even though years go by between visits. Lots of chat, two glasses of a nice red and a steak dinner and Zzzzzz….

Pic is of the pool i paddled in, there is also a big lap/play pool. Love the Poo Rules. Today is a day of laundry, rest and booking accomodation for the rest of our trip. It feels so good to stop still, read and not drive. We are however still struggling to find vacancies over the long weekend.

Dinner was at the home of friends originally from Warrandyte in Melbourne. We were spoilt with a delicious home cooked meal and even had a little song and play with Jo’s guitars. It was so nice to catch up. Then it was straight to bed and more Zzzzzz’s ready to hit the road again in the morning. Check out the beautiful flowers at Bunnings Balcatta. Couldn’t resist snapping a few pics.

Up early and packed to head out of Perth and finally down along the south coast. We stopped in Mandurah to have lunch with my lovely niece and her partner at the marina. Lo and behold we were delighted by a dolphin swimming right past our table. It did a leisurely traverse through the marina, the soft grey colours of its body were so pretty. What a delightful addition to a delightful lunch. So many delightfuls because it was, delightful.

A short stop at Busselton to walk the jetty was a must for me, even though we had to dodge the gazillion other tourists and the train. But what a great beach. I would have loved to go for a swim but time does not permit. The water looks sooo good and was super warm. At least i got to walk in it.

The road from Busselton to Manjimup is insane. The traffic is intense. We are staying with relatives who kindly offered us their front yard as we were unable to find accomodation anywhere over the long weekend. Lifesavers. We are grateful and will forever appreciate their generosity. We arrived late and after hugs and greetings we set up and had an early night. Tired.

Breakfast with the Manjimup crew at a local cafe was a real delight. We compared family similarities as we got to know each other and shared our stories. Nicki and and Melissa have awesome husbands and gorgeous kids. Such a pleasure to meet them.

We couldn’t leave the area without visiting Hamelin Bay and Margaret River. Hamelin Bay was very pretty but incredibly busy. The beach was jam packed with day trippers (like ourselves) looking at the stingrays. It was high tide and the waves soaked most of us as we gazed into the water looking for rays. The water is so warm and delicious. I would have loved a swim but there are a lot of rocks below the surface and i was seriously concerned about the big fella’s swimming about. It was quite a unique experience to see them actually swimming up to people who put their hands in to pat them. We didn’t touch. There are signs requesting people not touch but it didn’t stop anyone. It was a bit of a shame the long weekend had brought so many people out. It was impossible to enjoy the beautiful bay. It would be so brilliant when the crowds are less.

Margaret River left me confused. What is the big hullaboo about this town? I understand it is a ‘hub’ a place where you go to experience things but why does it get so much attention as a destination? I couldn’t find anything to capture me. The town has no personality or ambiance.

Is this all there is to Margaret River?

We caught up with the Manjimup family again over dinner. Indian/Italian cuisine was served at the restaurant and my fish curry was delish. More stories were shared and i loved the family connection that made us feel so comfortable together. We are intrigued by the farming stories and the fact bulls get agro enough to toss each other over fences! And to top it off an old Bunnings truck resides in Manjimup!

As we bid Manjimup farewell i have to say i will miss you guys. It was such a joy to meet you and get to know you.

Melissa and Garry kindly invited us to visit their farm and gave us some samples of what they grow. Beautiful. And much appreciated. Pop into the Bridgetown market to pick up some fresh produce from Garry and Maggie if you are down this way. Sensational. Happy memories.

Next destination is Peaceful Bay. A short two hour drive through a forest of impressive very tall tall trees. We stopped in Walpole for lunch and then set up at Peaceful Bay cooking Manjimup piperki for dinner. They smell amazing and taste even better. Charred, peeled, salted with a splash of olive oil. Yummo.

We had a little rain overnight and this morning feels fresh but is overcast. I hope we get some sunshine in the afternoon so i can see the beaches in all their blue/green glory. We spent the morning having a clean up and a quiet read until the clouds began to pull apart and glimmers of blue sky appeared. Thongs on we walked down to check out Peaceful Bay and it was amazing. Beautiful beach. White sand, clear water and amazing colours. It was so worth the long drive to get here. The water sparkled in the sun, shades of jade, turquoise and pale blue. Exquisite. What the eye feasted on the camera could not fully capture. I am overjoyed. And once again the water is so warm.

Peaceful Bay fish and chips made and sold at the CV Park cafe are the best i have ever eaten.

Lordy, lordy, lordy. What can i say about Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks? Stunning. Crystal clear warm water. Beautiful colours that are too perfect to be true. Amazing rocks that you just want to caress. Soft white sand. Wow. This incredible coastline has guaranteed i will force myself to drive that bloomin’ long road to get here again. I am totally awestruck. And lucky us, with the long weekend over the crowds have disappeared. Easy parking and only a few people around. Oh my. I am so delighted. A picture paints a thousand words, yes, cliched but true.

Greens Pool

Elephant Rocks

Our daughter had recommended a wander through Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. It was a bit wobbly walking through the canopy. Some super cool trees but the park was generally too clinical and organised to actually feel the forest. It felt like a tree zoo. It was okay but i wouldn’t do it twice even though the ticket allowed all day access.

Last day in Peaceful Bay. The sun is hot. The water warm. I can’t get enough of the colours and clarity of the water and the white sand. We enjoyed the bay before having to jump back in the car and do a shop in Denmark. The supermarket has very good quality produce. Recommend regardless of the longer drive than Walpole. The CV Park offered free dinner of pork rolls for park people and a chap played guitar at the cafe tonight. Many took up the offer, a huge crowd rocked up but we opted for our own cooking and a quiet evening.

I’ll be sorry to leave Peaceful Bay. It has exceeded my expectations. So beautiful. I won’t be sad however, to leave the gazillion millipedes in the showers. They are everywhere and are grossing me out.

Just a little note regarding the Hamelin Pool stromatolites – the boardwalk was wiped out by a cyclone in 2021 and it is still not repaired so it can’t be accessed. Shame.

During the inland drive from Peaceful Bay to Bremer Bay we hit 42 C. HOT! The aircon worked a treat but it actually was quite scary. As we neared the coast the temperature dropped and the caravan park this evening is a comfortable 28 C. Bremer Bay park is nice. Most sites are shady due to lots of trees but there are a few dodgy ones near the front – good thick grass. The huge amenities block is clean and fresh. A very nice environment for the next four days. We are enjoying the longer stays immensely after all the driving and overnight stops. First impressions of Bremer River at low tide – a huge estuary completely dry with crunchy but super soft white sand that is full of 4WD’s. The sea is quite rough today so the water is not enticing. There is a lot of seaweed swirling in the waves. The wind is pretty intense. I hope the weather clears so we can see it at it’s best.

When the sun broke through the clouds we were once again delighted by the colours of the water and the whiteness of the sand. At the risk of repeating myself – white white sand and blue blue water. WA you are amazing.

Blossoms Beach is definitely worth a visit. Spectacular. The surrounding sand dunes add to the beauty.

The good weather bubble has burst. Overnight rain fell in buckets and this morning the air feels clean and fresh although not cold. It is wet, wet, wet. When the sun came out it was HOT. Lovely in the shade. Clouds blow gently by in a blue sky. The weather is unpredictable but it is wonderful. The park has emptied considerably this morning. Running north away from the weather I am guessing. Unfortunately heading south means we are going straight into more rain. I hope we don’t get fully rained out for the rest of our trip. A few hours of sunshine would be nice for my first time to Esperance.

RAC Esperance is a huge but slightly better version of the the Perth RAC park. And i am so glad the amenities are good. In fact much better. It is quite windy but the sky is blue. I cross my fingers we get some dry weather to explore as it will be a long time before i return. We set up and do a shop as our fridge is empty.

We woke to the split splot of rain drops which evaporated instantly in the 37 C heat. I did three loads of laundry hoping it would dry before the forecast heavy rains. The sun began to bake and my laundry dried in a blink so we set off to explore some beaches from the air conditioned comfort of the car. As hot as it was i had to get out and explore the once again ridiculously stunning beaches that surround Esperance. WA has stolen my heart. More crazy white sand and clear clear sea water. Lusciously smooth rocks, white sand dunes and blue blue water. Never ending bliss for the eyes and soul. Twilight Beach is gob smacking and the lagoon leading to it is not too shabby either.

After lunch we checked out Wylie Beach as the storm clouds rolled in. What a magnificent beach. If only the sun had been shining, it would have been dazzling. Regardless, even in overcast conditions it was beautiful. Check out that sky! The colours are so unreal and yet totally real.

Heavy rain hit. The humidity was intense. As the rain cleared and the humidity increased even more we did a Bunnings and Woolies shop and had a bit of a stroll down the main street of Esperance. Sadly Esperance shops are looking quite tired. Bunnings nursery was noticeably empty with lots of dried out plants. Quite unusual for a Bunnings store. The main drag of Esperance was disappointing. My expectations were rather more of tourist hub feel with cafes and boutique shops and judging by the large number of travellers milling about we weren’t the only one’s feeling this way. The only bakery in town was chock full. We didn’t even attempt to push through the crowd. I don’t recall seeing another cafe but i may not have looked hard enough. Perhaps the everpresent coffee vans at most beaches have poached business from the town centre. A bit sad as cafes definitely provide a vibe and personality and this is very much missing from Esperance town centre.

The afternoon promised to be dry and a weak sun peaked through the clouds. We took the opportunity to drive to Cape Le Grand which is less than an hour away. This short visit was only a taste for a much longer return and stay in this beautiful national park. The Lucky Bay camp ground is situated in an excellant position and is very comfortably set out. The beach is every bit as amazing as we expected. Even with the overcast weather it is extraordinary. If only we had a little bit of sunshine to highlight the incredible colours. The rocky outcrops are majestic. It is indescribably beautiful. Every bay and cove sparkles and shines in splendor.

The whistling rock was actually doing a gentle whistle, well, more of a blowy airy sound as the wind was not strong. It was a very peaceful quite spiritual feel.

We couldn’t resist Mantooboornup (Frenchmans Peak) even though it was getting late and the sun had begun to set. We climbed about three quarters of the way up but I was wearing a dress and the last part of the peak meant scrambling over a very steep rock. However, we had climbed high enough to gaze at the amazing views of distant coves and the rocky islands enshrouded in the mist that enveloped them as the sun fell. Stunning, but impossible to photograph with the phone.

It was quite a climb in parts and it got quite a bit more difficult the higher we went. There were a surprising number of wildflowers along the track and heaps of lizards. We were thoroughly captivated by this National Park.

The rain fell again this morning. I am doing some painting and crotchet, happy to sit still. It isn’t windy thank goodness as the rain is super heavy. It is still warm and kid from around the park are loving the flooded areas. They have spent all morning riding bikes and scooters through the puddles. More fun than the pool. Fortunately we were on a high spot just at the start of this flooded area and kept dry.

The afternoon once again brought out the sun so we went for a walk along the Esperance shoreline. The park is well maintained. The pier a nice little addition to our walk.

Another muggy morning as we pack up and start the drive to Cocklebiddy. An uneventful drive and we arrive in time to have Cocklebiddy take away fish and chips for dinner after pit stops in Norseman, Mundrabilla and along the Nullabor.

A good nights sleep despite the never ending trucks that stop at Cocklebiddy. We set off back to Penong. Another loooong drive. Driving conditions today are a bit scary. The wind is super strong and the trucks are constant. The wind pressure created by passing trucks is immense and its been a white knuckle drive with quite a bit of squealing. It is not a fun day and arrival at Penong was a relief.

We chose Quorn as our next stop on the way home. Lunch stop at Wudinna. The bakery was brilliant. My pasty was delicious, full of nicely diced veggies. We shared a vanilla slice. It wasn’t the best i’ve ever had. Easy to cut as the pastry was thin and a little undercooked and soft. The custard creamy but a little too solid. Never the less, a great town to stop and i highly recommend the hot pastries.

Weather has been good for driving but the hike across the Eyre Peninsula is a long one. If we had time we would definitely take the long route along the coast. So much nicer. The Quorn CV Park is lovely when we arrive and the lead up to it through the range was pretty spectacular. A peaceful end to the day. Huge beautiful gums in the CV Park have been preserved and raucous birds are everywhere. Beware of the many kanga’s on the road. They like the Ritchi Pitchi rail track that winds in and out along the road to Quorn. and pop up everywhere. I had forgotten how beautiful the Flinders Ranges are and plan to return. It has been a long time since we were last here.

Quorn silo art is a little different to the norm. They project changing images at night from sunset. We watched for a while but soon headed to the Transcontinental Hotel for dinner. The pub was strange. It had a seriously weird vibe. I definitely got the impression locals dislike strangers in their space. We literally had to elbow our way to the dining room through drinkers in the bar who refused to move an inch to let us pass. We were showered with frosty glares rather than the smiles and g’day’s usually exchanged in country pubs. Very awkward. The menu read a lot more upmarket than the victuals received. The steaks were not good and the salad bar questionable. Yeah? Nah.

Driving out of Quorn double inspired us to return to the Flinders Ranges sooner rather than later. The surrounding range is so beautiful.

Tonights stop is Victor Harbour after a lunch break at Crystal Brook which has an awesome bakery and ‘yay’ they make fresh sandwiches to order with a smile! The cakes all look delicious. A great selection. I chose a mini kitchener (cream donut) The donut was actually sensational. So good. The mock cream not so good but the donut more than made up for it. A very pretty town to stop at. Full of seniors. The street was very busy but everyone was quite elderly. A bit of a giant retirement town perhaps. HIghly recommend for a walk and lunch.

Victor Harbour holiday park has grassy well spaced sites. The amenities are a little dated but huge and clean. It was a horrible drive to get here through peak hour traffic around Adelaide. We timed it badly so had to set up quickly and take off for a walk around Granite Rock while it was still daylight. The walk was exactly what we needed after days of driving. We inhaled the fresh air and enjoyed the walk immensely, watching the sun set as we strolled back across the bridge to dinner at The Victor. The Prawn Pizza was delicious. Awesome crust. A cool local white wine complimented it perfectly. It put me in a very happy place. A delightful evening in Victor Harbour.

Last overnight stop before hitting home turf is Mt Gambier. The weather is warm and the wind light making it an easy drive. We drove through the Coorong, feasting on the beauty that once again could not be caught by the phone’s camera. It is a majestic lagoon. Thank goodness people are kept off most of it. We decided to drive the loop and although it was awesome to revisit the salt lakes the road was very corrugated and pot holed. It was a long slow drive. Last time we did this is it was not so difficult. The salt lakes were much prettier last time we saw them too, i think there may have been a little more water in them and the colours were quite intense then compared to today.

We arrived at the Pine Country CV Park in Mt Gambier once again just in time for a quick set up before sunset and took off to see the Blue Lake before it got dark. We were pleased to catch it while we could still enjoy the intense blue of the water. I have only been here out of blue season so this was a first for me and it was quite amazing. It really is quite an extraordinary blue even though the pics may not look impressive.

Daylight quickly disappeared and dinner was calling us so we took ourselves to The G – The Mt Gambier Hotel. Dinner was excellant and we went to bed satisfied. Although sad to be at the end of our road trip we are somewhat glad to have only one day of driving left.

Can’t wait for out next road trip!

Hat Head National Park NSW

Posted on January 24, 2025July 14, 2025 by Frida

With the Penguin camper trailer off the road with a snapped cable for three months and unable to sit still and wait, we opted for a cabin at Hat Head National Park. We loved this place so much we went twice in three months. First time in the diesel Prado and second time fully electric in the Tesla. Charging was a no brainer, too easy and the superchargers along the east coast were well placed, fast and trouble free. I have blended the two trips into one and have recommended to anyone who will listen that Hat Head is well worth a visit and needs a minimum of a week. Once you get there you will understand why. It’s amazing.

Being a long drive – 1297kms from home, we made several wee, feed, charge and walk stops with overnight stays at Mittagong.

Morning tea break in Euroa at Burkes Bakery. Cream donuts mmm….

Bulahdelah was lunch stop on day two. This gorgeous fluffy pooch was irresistible. A pretty town for a break and a short walk. And a book swap! Yay!

Arrival at Hat Head late at night we had dinner at the Bowls Club and an evening walk before early to bed night. Simple fare. Frill free school camp feel about the food. No complaints from me. I enjoyed every mouthful. HUGE portions. Veggies piled high and large pieces of protein hit the spot. Nice to sample the local brew as well.

Evening walk. Oh so beautiful.

Birdlife is abundant and these cheeky fellows were constantly around. We did not feed them!! But they sure were hoping.

Korogoro Headland Circuit walk 3.2km. Not long in distance but it is a Grade 4 walk. There was some rocky bits i struggled with but it was an awesome walk and the views are incredible. Worth the puffing and panting in the hard bits. Being there during whale season we saw whales almost every day. Awesome!

Connors Track is a longer walk we didn’t complete but even a partial walk provides beautiful views.

The walking bridge which leads to Korogoro Headland Circuit and other hikes.

Korogoro Creek is constantly changing with the tides. I love it. The colours are beyond belief. Walking the bridge to see fish and stingrays at low tide is a daily treat. Always something to see.

The creek at low tide.

Tannins as the tidal changes drain the creek

I can not stop taking photos of the creek. It is stunning.

Just out of town are magnificent sand dunes. The road leading to the camp ground for access to the dunes is quite pot holed and really only suitable for 4WD. If you can get there, it is spectacular.

There are several towns close by from half an hour to and hours drive which are worth a visit. The closest is South West Rocks. A largish town with a nice beach but we prefer Hat Head. The beaches and creek are much nicer and the serenity is definitely a winner for us. We had lunch at Shoey’s Bakery.

Crescent Head and Killick Creek are a bit further in the opposite direction but i was keen to check it out. It has a nice family atmosphere. Lots of kids. Not for us. Great views from Little Nobby. We saw whales from the top. However, although a really nice location, i still prefer Hat Head. It is so much more peaceful. Try the donuts at Barnetts Bakery.

Hat Head had an abundance of Pelicans. Pelicans. Pelicans. Lots of Pelicans.

Some of the critters i prefer to see from the distance and not encounter close up…Garrggh.

Day trip to Urunga Lagoon was great. We enjoyed the boardwalk, peering over the edge checking out heaps of fist and a bunch of water dragons. The strength of the river current flowing out to sea is frightening. The boardwalk is a great walk. Lots to see. Definitely worth the drive.

For lunch we drove inland to Bellingen. What a pretty town. Loads of posh shops to fill in a bit of time window shopping. Amazing pastries the Swiss Patisserie and Bakehouse. I’ll go back there just to try more! Lots more!

And on the way back to Hat Head we stopped at The Honey Place.

Sting rays at low tide from the foot bridge. Spent ages watching them. Such elegant creatures.

Final dinner at the Bowls Club. Never can complain about the serving sizes!

I’ll be back!

Road Trip Melbourne to Noosa – Tin Can Bay

Posted on January 28, 2023January 24, 2025 by Frida

Our first road trip in a long time sans van – which was waiting on parts for a bent axle… The idea of country town motels and no setting up appealed to us along with avoiding exposure to COVID in crowded caravan parks.

Day one leaving Melbourne in the early morn the weather was wet and cold and we were grateful for the Prado heated seats as we headed towards the Hume Highway. We wanted to get some km’s behind us so by late afternoon after munching through most of the snacks I had packed we had not yet stopped for lunch and I was getting hungry and cranky. We left the highway looking for a bakery in one of the small towns that were now sadly bypassed by the long and boring highway. To my dismay nothing that offered food was open. We drove from town to town in disbelief until realising the state of affairs, all shops had closed by 1-2pm. We were too late. Not a whisker of a bakery or cafe or even a pub was lit up and welcoming. In despair, we had to be fortified with some leftover Hummus and a slice of bread and lollies. A most unsatisfying lunch indeed. As the afternoon rolled into early evening we were getting mighty hungry.

Recent floods had left many of the smaller roads in disrepair and some causeways were still flowing over the road. The shortcuts we had intended to take were either cut of off closed as a result of water damage. Detours sent us past our destination and as dusk fell we had to slow to a crawl to avoid the wildlife gauntlet that we found ourselves in.

We finally arrived in Parkes two hours late and truly grateful for a well heated room at the Apollo Motel. Totally starving we quickly dropped our bags in and went to look for somewhere to eat. Choices were limited, although it was Saturday night the main street of Parkes was quiet. We settled on a tiny but cute Thai restaurant, it only sat about 22 people. Relieved they were still taking orders we tucked into a tasty red curry, warm and aromatic. Just perfect. Unfortunately it was BYO only and we were too tired to bother with the suggested walk down the street to the bottle shop. Sensibly, and somewhat sadly, we sipped only water with our meal before retiring for an early night, grateful that the bed had a super comfy mattress and excellent pillows.

Day 2 we had another long drive ahead of us. The plan was to do a couple of overnight stops on the way to Ballina and then stop for four days to catch up with family. As we drove the Newell and Oxley Highways, navigating pot holes from water damage and grateful to be sitting high in a 4WD. The sun came out and although only 15 C it was warm when we stopped for breaks and walks, enjoying art works along the way, even on toilet block walls.

Morning coffee on a Sunday found us again walking through deserted towns with nothing open for travellers. We stopped for a walk and lunch in Coonabarabran and had a chat with a local who filled us in on a bit history while we watched the Castlereagh river flowing high and fast. The only cafe open was as to be expected chockers full. The lines of McVansions lining the street and the constant parade of them up and down the main street testified that we were not alone in the search of places for luncheon. Taking note that weekends were not the best days to travel when purchased sustenance is required and unable to find an empty table in the busy cafe, we bought bread rolls, cheese and pastrami from the Woolies deli and made our own lunch.

The drive from Coonabarabran to Tamworth is very pretty. Beautiful ranges and pyramid shaped hills. It was wonderfully peaceful after the Hume Hwy chaos.

Gunnedah is out next rest stop and we are once again hopeful of finding somewhere open to purchase coffee! The sun is shining and even the flooded Oxley river is looking beautiful rather than treacherous.

We arrive in good time at the Edward Parry Motel in Tamworth. Clean, quiet, spacious and the delightful gentleman at the desk gave us two very full glasses of complimentary welcome wine. Definitely recommend this motel. It was recently renovated and super clean. COVID still being around, even the television control was made safe with a disposable plastic cover. The complimentary bikkies in the room were better than usual as well!

Tamworth was a little more lively and we chose The Tudor Hotel for dinner. We were pleased that COVID protocol still had tables well spaced apart. I was in desperate need of vegetables and salad. He who puts out the rubbish had a chicken burger which came with a mountain of chips, I selected a good old chicken schnitty which i was able to order with both veggies and salad in place of chips. Yay! Pepper sauce came in a little china jug rather than smeared all over the plate, another joyous plus. The chicken in both burger and Shnitty was tender to the level of perfection. The large wine was indeed generous. I highly recommend the Tudor Hotel for a good feed and genial atmosphere.

Day 3 was not quite as long a drive as the previous two days as we headed to Ballina. Morning tea stop was Uralla and what a delightful town it is. We did our stoll up and down the main street and spent some time chatting with Christina Bell @Barking Dog Gallery. She is a delightful potter who makes beautiful functional pottery. She showed us through her workshop which was indeed a joy for me. Being a Monday the street was open and we opted for Moon’s bakery which had a small but very nice choice of cakes. The passionfruit vanilla slice was very easy to eat…I totally recommend you take the time to stop at Uralla and walk the street. There are lots of historical buildings, beautiful old pubs and even a brewery! Which unfortunately, but not unexpectedly, was closed on an early Monday morning. The visitors information centre also has super clean toilets.

Waterfall Way was ahead of us and I was looking forward to this iconic drive. Unfortunately time was running short as we had not expected to spend such a long time enjoying Uralla. The road was super rough, very pot holed and we were only able to stop and look at the main falls at Wollomombi and Ebor. Both were totally worth stopping for and each provided different experiences. Wollomombi was a deep and thunderous cavern that fell far into the ground, not at all what I expected. Water poured through the steep, deep cliff faces from different angles. It would have been awesome to be able to climb down to the basin and feel the falls from within. Ebor was like a beautiful wedding cake. The water cascaded down several levels to end in a winding river far below us. The view of the mountain range was also spectacular. Good walking tracks at both falls.

With nowhere to stop for lunch, we pulled up outside the Nymboida Community Centre which has spotless toilets available for public use. We had rolls with camembert which i had stashed knowing lunches were not easy to find, and had a quiet and restful break, even though three sets of locals came to check us out.

Arriving in Ballina we were very pleased with our accommodation at Ballina Palms Boutique Motel. Very comfortable. At the end of the street was a walking path along the waterfront which was very convenient. We were here to spend some time with family and reminisce and celebrate my father in law who had passed away only a few days before our arrival. We had a lovely catch up and some great meals – thank you Ros.

Leaving Ballina we headed to Tin Can Bay for another four days. It was lovely. We stayed at the Dolphin Waters Motel and had a large upstairs apartment with a laundry, yay! A decent sized balcony overlooked the pool and inlet. A perfect spot. Very quiet and walking distance to shops which consisted of IGA, butcher, bakery etc and a small tucked away pub that was full of locals every day. A well made circuit walk takes you off the roads and is very pretty. Mangroves line the inlet and at low tide the many anchored boats are left high and dry. I really enjoyed the quiet of this town.

We decided to do a day trip to Hervey Bay as neither of us had been there and we wanted to check it out for future travel. On the way we drove through Maryborough, a large town with some magnificent examples of architecture in the original Queenslander style. Lot’s of them had been renovated to a superior standard. Beautiful.

We arrived mid morning and parked at the Marina, booking a table at Cafe Balena for lunch before going for a walk. There isn’t really much to see or do at the Marina other than lunch. We attempted a walk, but the path was blocked at many points and we ended up walking the car park most of the time. Lunch was lovely. We sat at a table overlooking the water and were glad we had booked as it got very busy. The food serves were generous and the staff friendly and courteous. Even though it was extremely busy and people were waiting for tables, we were not rushed. Oddly dogs were welcome, and there were quite a few sitting under tables or on chairs. Not sure how I felt about the dogs. After lunch we drove a little further to Ungara. They have a wonderful looooong pier. It was low tide and we were struck by the beauty of the huge sand bar. It was very pretty and i wish i could have seen it in full sunlight. The day had turned overcast so we missed out on seeing the colours of the water and sand at its best. It would be spectacular. Well made paths offer a easy walking and the pier was a ripper. I am inclined to return to Ungara.

While staying in tin Can Bay we also did a day trip to Rainbow Beach and Inskip Point. The walk at Rainbow beach to the coloured sands was beautiful and as it was not low enough tide for the 4WD’ers to roar across the sand we could amble, explore and gape at the beautiful surrounds in peace. Lunch at the Rainbow Beach Hotel was standard burger and local beer and excellent chips, very busy so we were glad to have arrived just after the main lunch crowds began to thin out and were able to get a seat looking out onto the street. Very pleasant. I would like to return for a longer stay in Rainbow Beach but definitely not in peak season. It would be horrendous. At Inskip there was the usual dodging of the 4WD’s tearing up the beach to avoid getting bogged so they could catch the ferry to Fraser Island.

Noosa was only a short drive south and we had four days in a beautiful house in Sunshine Beach. The weather was perfect for walking but still a bit too cool for me to submerge in the crystal blue waters at Noosa main beach. However, walking ankle deep was rather delightful. Hastings street was as busy as to be expected in these parts but still enjoyable for a stroll and some window shopping. The blue of the ocean however lured us, rather than the uncomparable shopping strip no matter how enticing and our days were pleasurably filled with walks shared between Sunshine Beach and Noosa main beach in equal appreciation. Further exploration also took us for a walk along the river which although peaceful and paths well maintained for walkers and bike riders, was not at joyful as the beaches.

Sunshine Beach

In celebration of my sisters birthday the family met at Sails Noosa for a surprise party. Quite a feat as we had managed to keep the fact that were were all travelling from Melbourne to Noosa quiet for months in order to surprise her at dinner. It was a very happy occasion, regardless of the fact I felt the food at Sails a bit disappointing as indeed was the service. For the price paid i expected better. I would not bother to return. But i will return to Noosa in warmer weather for a swim.

Noosa Main Beach

Very beautiful.

After four lively days with the family we sadly had to start the return trip home. Having driven north via inland roads we decided to drive home along the coast for a while in order to extend our time in sun and sea as long as possible before returning to freezing Melbourne.

Coffs Harbour was our first overnight stop on the way home. I immediately missed not having our little Penguin camper as we ventured into the east coast motel void. Overpriced and delivering borderline comfort I vowed I would only do this drive again with my own clean sheets and kitchen in tow. By now I was also fed up with eating out every lunch and dinner and was craving fresh food. However, I must say that despite the smelly, sticky room, a morning walk on the harbour and onto Mutton Island is something I most emphatically recommend.

The crowds were ramping up early on the harbour and parking spots were filling fast as we joined a steady stream of people out for a morning walk. The hordes thinned significantly as we followed the path up the steep incline on Mutton Island. The magnificent views from every direction were well worth a little bit of exertion.

On the return walk we took the lower boardwalk along the harbour and I was enchanted by the numerous schools of fish below. It was a really lovely way to spend a morning. I do suggest you avoid the Galley Cafe as our coffees ended up in the bin after one sip. The milk was definitely soured and as we were already in the car ready to start our drive couldn’t be bothered returning to make a fuss. It was a pretty grotty little cafe and the staff too interested in private chit chat to provide more than a nominal sense of service. We stopped for coffee elsewhere, but it was very busy with breakfasters and it was a 45 minutes wait for our take away coffees. Which were very good i might add. I can’t remember the name of the cafe…

Our second overnight stop was at Gorokan, a short distance from The Entrance. We wanted to stay somewhere we had never heard of and hoped it was away from crowds. After a late arrival we had dinner at the Wyong Leagues Club. The huge complex was an easy choice for our tired minds and we followed the path under a well lit canopy into the bustle. The food was not brilliant and we left quite a bit of it uneaten. Not the best choice but I enjoyed people watching over my glass of wine.

In the morning we drove to The Entrance for a quick walk before hitting the road again. Quite a magnificent waterway. I would have liked the time to explore more, including perhaps a swim at the sea baths which is always exciting.

Back onto the highway and it was horrible. The traffic was intense but it was the quickest way home. The drive was improved greatly with a stop at Mittagong and the Gumnut Patisserie. What a find! The tables on the lush grass were plentiful and it was lovely to sit outside in the sunshine. My only regret was not having a full size fridge to bring back heaps of cakes. They looked fantastic and i will make sure I get back there again. To top it off across the road is the Eden Brewery where I purchased my first growler of stout and a few bottles of various others beers to sample.

Gundagai was our last stop over before home. The main street has been repaved and it all looks very spiffy and welcoming to travellers. We enjoyed a quiet pre dinner walk looking at the lovely old buildings, some which have been restored, some works in progress and some looking decidedly shaky on their old foundations. The disused heritage train station is open during the day for visitors and although we arrived after hours we still enjoyed walking around the pretty area. I think the removal of the far too many dodgy pots of bedraggled plants could possibly enhance the entrance to the station. Just a suggestion. The wind was arctic so we headed to the RSL for a warm dinner and were pleased with the simple and delicious fare on offer. I went for a plain old steak which was beautifully tender with perfectly cooked veggies. Enjoyed it thoroughly. The staff were pleasant and prices reasonable. Very good.

Time was up. We were on the last leg of a very busy road trip. Lunch stop was in Wangaratta. We had to pull out the puffy jackets while walking around town searching for Shelly’s Country Bakery which had excellent reviews and I am glad we took the trouble to taste their vanilla slice. It was excellent. Although the lady serving us was a bit miffed at having to make our fresh sandwiches, she did a great job and we parked by the flooded river and enjoyed our fresh sandwiches and delicious vanilla slices. Very yum. Afterwards we went for a bit of a walk to check out the flooded river before the final leg of our drive home.

Yorke Peninsula SA – Moonta Bay and Point Turton

Posted on June 3, 2022January 24, 2025 by Frida

Winter was fast approaching so we decided to make a quick dash to the Yorke Peninsula while the sun still shone. We were lucky to score a sunny if not exactly warm week and that was good enough for us!

We chose to drive the quickest most direct route as time was short, but never to short to stop and have a good look at the awesome silo art at Kaniva.

Our halfway overnight stop, well, a little more than halfway was at Murray Bridge, for convenience rather than comfort, as the night time noise from the freeway ensured a restless night. Other than the noise, the park was well set up. The amenities old but clean and the showers had a wonderful flow, much needed to recover from the sleepless night. The camp kitchen was an outdoor open sided setting more reminiscent of camping on tropical beaches. The garden provided a lovely ambiance and would be quite enjoyable on a balmy evening.

Lunch time stop the following day was at Port Wakefield to revisit a town we enjoyed staying at on the way to the Eyre Peninsula on a previous trip. The road works were a nightmare but it is worth stopping and going for a walk in this town of pretty buildings and wide streets. Artworks pop up unexpectedly and the giant pepper tree was awesome. It was hard not to hug it. The compulsory vanilla slice taste test wasn’t great from the Port Wakefield Bakery but the sandwiches were good.

We arrived at Moonta Bay Holiday Park glad to have booked a lower level waterfront site. Definitely the better choice of positions. The views were uninterrupted and glorious at any time of the day. The sites are tight but the view more than makes up for it. The amenities are almost fully refurbished and pretty yellow roses in a vase were a lovely touch. Unfortunately the showers are possibly the worst i have ever experienced, and i’ve used many…The pressure was so low i laughed in spite of my discomfort and the hot to cold roller coaster had me screaming and hopping in and out of the three drops that fell on my head. I learned to wash my hair quickly as soon as the water was warm enough and that was as good as it got. A shame, as it is a terrific location. As our first evening fell i marvelled at how lucky we were with the view from our van.

Loving tides as i do, Moonta Bay delighted me. High tide filled the swimming enclosure and low tide changed the colours to pale blues and provided heaps of paddling space for little ones. Add a wonderfully long pier and my joy was unbounded. I can’t emphasise enough how crystal clear the water in this area is. Simply stunning. The clarity of the water rivalled any i have seen anywhere, ensuring we will return in warmer weather to be able to enjoy it from within rather than from above. The swimming enclosure provided some assurance that the beautiful water could be enjoyed without fear of being shark bait.

I was pretty chuffed to see the van next to us named after me. Well, actually, i was told it was Frida Kahlo but eh…

If walks on white sand, fishing and beautiful sunsets are your pleasures, you should visit Moonta Bay. We saw soooo many fish and squid in the water when walking on the pier. When the sun shone, the colour of the water was stunning. And the sunsets were magnificent. Perfect for the evening wine.

We were entranced by the ‘crazy bunny’ in an enclosed courtyard in the main street of Moonta who was waiting for adoption. He was the last one left of his family. Tempting, but nah.

Sadly we had to leave Moonta Bay after a glorious four days but i was keen to check out Point Turton. We could only spend three days at Point Turton as we had to return to work, and it was not long enough. We once again booked a waterfront site but it was a bit noisy with fishermen coming and going in the early hours. The car park for the boat ramp was right at our feet. Best to book a site away from the lower levels at Point Turton. We will know for next time. This is a very busy park, lots of boats and mainly older gray nomads who appeared to have settled in for long stays. Lucky buggers. A fire pit beside the camp kitchen is lit every day at 4pm so anyone looking for company can congregate for a chat. The amenities are old but freshly painted and clean. The showers were wonderful after the sad ones at Moonta Bay.

Pelicans were well aware of the fish cleaning table…and squabbled openly for space as they expectantly waited. The pier was lined daily with hopeful fisher people. In the clear water we could see ample variety’s and numbers of fish happily swimming through lures and hooks dangling in their space. We watched in fascination as a two handfuls of burley thrown in the water created a seething mass of fin and silver turmoil for a couple of minutes before they all swam off with full bellies and not a single hook attached. Oddly, one solitary fisherman was pulling up fish after fish. Filling his bucket while others watched jealousy.

Again i was astounded by the water clarity. It was truly incredible. I was skipping with happiness.

Stingrays under the pier were so beautiful to watch. I took way too many photos. Such magnificent creatures.

These are three of my favourite pic’s.

We visited the famous Flaherty’s beach at low tide and were amused by the fact they hold a sandbar golf tournament there. The tide was just turning as we left and the incoming water was pristine. If it was summer i would have been wallowing like a jelly fish with no where to go. Many beaches close to Point Turton offer beautiful walks, easy beach driving and some super sand dunes that unfortunately were private property right down to the beach and consequently couldn’t be explored. Although tracks in the sand showed not everyone is as law abiding as some of us.

Tiny shells sparkled prettily on some parts of the beach in huge quantities. There is no lack of empty space to enjoy and exclaim over.

The salt lake trail is well marked and although i have seen more spectacular salt lakes, it is worth the drive to see some of them. A sunny day would have presented a better vista but the weather was turning and we were on our last day before heading back home.

While checking out the salt lakes we drove to Yorketown for lunch at the bakery. We don’t often have pies, pasties or sausage rolls, but i can honestly say these were the best pastries i have ever eaten other than my father in laws. Crunchy, golden and full of flavour. This is a bakery i fully recommend. The vanilla slice was pretty good too. Even though they look messy.

Far too quickly it was time to leave this beautiful part of Australia. On the way home we stopped at Ardrossan for Lunch and sat on a convenient bench overlooking the sea with the stunning red cliffs on either side of us.

Overnight stop on the way home was in Bordertown. It was dark by the time we arrived and we didn’t unhitch. Dinner was a questionable pizza from the road house which was across the road. We were too tired to cook and there wasn’t much else on offer unfortunately. A wee stop at Murray Bridge and a nice walk along the Murray led us to the Bunyip. Don’t go out of your way to see this noisy creature. And don’t take little kids unless they are fearless. The volume was eardrum shattering.

NSW Northern Beaches

Posted on November 26, 2021January 24, 2025 by Frida

Lockdown in VIctoria has been long and at times frustrating, but we made it out at last! November 2021 saw us crossing the border into NSW and heading up to the beautiful Northern Beaches.

Leaving Melbourne on a wet and foggy morning with my new friend sourdough starter in the van (he needs constant feeding and can’t be left behind) the GPS decided it would be nice to hit the Hume Hwy via Kinglake and the Melba Hwy. A much nicer start to the journey than the dreadful ring road at peak hour.

Benalla

Coffee, wee and walk at our first stop in Benalla. I was thrilled to finally see the completed mural I had spent a weekend working on in 1983 as a pottery student at RMIT. I was proud to think my hands helped to make some of these terracotta tiles.

Some lovely murals decorated the town. Make sure you go for a walk and look around.

Goulbourn

A long tiring drive but due to the rain this year it is very green and pretty. Storms around us delivered some interesting clouds.

Governors Hill Big4 is very tight park. It’s a bit shabby and quite noisy, but the bathrooms are all renovated and super fresh and clean. It’s an overnight stop we have used before, but not sure we will again. The little insect band played country music until quite late in the night. If we had a site closer to them i may well have taken a shovel to them.

Bonny Hill

Setting up through a tropical strength deluge was not fun but i have a good man who let me sit in the car while he battled on. We woke in the morning to sun, humidity and 29 C by 11am. A shower in the immaculate amenities set things right for the rest of the day.

Follow a clear path through a tunnel of vegetation to a beautiful beach that brought joy to my heart.

Kempsey

We stopped at Kempsey looking for a coffee and bakery, but after a walk through the beautiful park and picturesque riverside, enjoying the Jacaranda’s in full bloom, walking through the purple snow dropping with every puff of wind and marvelling at the pops of seed pods bursting open, we decided to move on and look for food elsewhere.

Nambucca Heads

33 C and humid in Nambucca Heads. We were finally thawing out. By now we were starving and settled on the Wharf Street Cafe. An inauspicious facade but it was quite nice and comfortable inside. Set on the river, it had ceiling fans swirling a nice breeze and the staff were really lovely. The food sounded promising but was average unfortunately. We shared Bruschetta, not great, Squid, which was not bad, and Buffalo WIngs, pretty good. The local beers were average, and we went for sweets. I had a Rose macaroon, acceptable but disappointing as i thought it was rosewater, but wasn’t. Coffee’s were good. we ran out of time for walk which was a shame. So, back on to the Pacific Hwy…which i do not like….

Skennars Head

We arrived in Skennars Head with a temperature of 34 C. First time we had felt hot for months and months. The Big4 park is still as comfortable and clean as it was last time we visited pre COVID. The grassy sites are lush, trimmed and spacious. The palm tree cast nice shade over site. Staff are extremely helpful. The low flying planes are great for enthusiasts but are bit invasive if you want a quiet space. Mind you, they are infrequent and don’t seem to fly at night, so it is not too hard to deal with the occasional boomer passing overhead. Friendly frogs in the bathroom!

Sharpes Beach

Just a short drive towards Ballina, Sharpes Beach is indeed beautiful at low tide. There is a walking track from the park, to Boulder Beach and along a well defined path. Surfers hit the waves at high tide. Car Parks are limited during busy periods but the bach is never crowded. Very lovely.

Lennox Head

Lennox Head has a smart little village style street with a choice of eateries. We were lucky to be there on a day when ight rescued sea turtles were being released. It was extremely moving and wonderful to see these incredible creatures who had been cared for restored to health and able to find their way back out to sea. The protected area where they were released is also a great pool for swimming. Naturally protected by rocks from the surf, we had a lovely swim here.

Whites Beach

Whites Beach was quite a journey to get to. Crazy steep steps down to the beach did me in for the next two days. Quite a few of the rocks i clambered down and then UP were deeper than my legs were long enough, so lots of scrambling. Hard work but oh so worth it. This is an incredibly beautiful coastline with a magnificent beach of fine sand and water exceptionally clear. A large cave offers shade to park yourself and there are other small caves and coves to explore at low tide. I wouldn’t risk being caught out during a high tide. The waves here are ferocious and only dedicated surfers were out in the water. The young men we saw bolted up and down the treacherous steps with boards under their arms and bare feet. I was envious of their ease with the quite scary steep track. This is not a swimming beach. The waves were majestic and i couldn’t stop looking at their immensity.

Boulder Beach

A short walk from the park to boulder beach gives access to a great walk that does either left or right along the stunning verdant cliff tops. It’s not called Boulder Beach without reason! This time we took the right hand walk back towards Sharpes Beach. The views are quite unlike most Australian Beaches with the lush green cliffs more reminiscent of the UK coastline. We also saw Dolphins frolicking in the water below. Easy walking and very peaceful.

Bangalow

I’d never been to Bangalow and have to admit i was expecting a pretty rain foresty type drive into a secluded hippy town. Unfortunately the GPS took us straight onto the horrible Hwy which quite killed my romantic vision of our drive. The town was very busy. Parking was virtually non existent. We found a park eventually and went for a walk up and down both sides of the main street. Eateries were not prolific surprisingly, nor particularly enticing. There are lots of pretty shops to have a poke about in for dust collecting items or pale linen women’s wear. Not much available for the boys. We opted to buy some cakes from Butcher Baker, which has a brilliant selection of bakery products. I had a nice chat with wonderful baker who served me and threw some extra cakes in, much to our delight as they were delicious. The custard filled donuts were crunchy on the outside, light and fluffy inside and the custard creamy and satiny and generously filled. Perfect. The pastry on the Raspberry Almond tarts, and pear tarts with delicious. Soft without being soggy or too crumbly. And the cheesecake, yes i am ashamed to say how many cakes we sampled, but have NO regrets, the cheesecake pastry was again wonderful and the filling creamy, not to sweet and i am salivating just writing about these fine sweets. Yummo.

Ulmarra

It was time to head home and back to work. Not happy but a necessary evil. Getting off the ugly Hwy for a break, we stumbled on a town we had never heard of, Ulmarra. And what a joy it was. This is a place i highly recommend. The Clarence Cafe at the rear of the Ulmarra Hotel is bliss. I was sad we were there too early to order lunch but the cakes and coffee made up for it. Cakes are well up on the yummy stakes. My cannoli, although quite solid, was beautifully presented and the ricotta filling light and fluffy. He who always orders sticky date pud exclaimed effusively that it was the best he had ever eaten. The coffee on par with any fine establishments in Melbourne, if not better than many! My iced coffee tasted like proper coffee, and it was not smothered in fizzy spray can cream. The modern menu offered grilled whole sardines with ciabatta and sashimi. Reading the chalkboard i vowed to return for a lunch or dinner.

The beer garden was large, green and lovely. Set along the riverside the tables were well spaced out. The environment conveyed a feeling of peace and allowed you to sit and relax. To my distress, there were at least half a dozen water dragons who shared my idea that this was a nice spot to chill. They were draped on virtually every table or bench around the garden. Occasionally one would propel itself off the tables and land in the grass, scurrying away to stop and stare at something only they could see. This is a great place. Make the effort to find it.

After an overnight at Lake Macquarie Big4, which was not my most favourite place i have stopped at, we stopped at Marulan for lunch. The Marulan Cafe made our sandwiches fresh, and were happy to substitute the chicken, which they were out of, with roast beef at my request. Nice to get a pot of tea. The sandwiches were quite substantial and fresh. Good one to remember for a quick stop and feed.

Humula

Finding a quiet campsite off the beaten track is one of the best parts of travelling. Humula is a tiny town that boast the smallest licensed club in NSW. Unfortunately it is only open Wednesdays and Fridays, manned by volunteers, and we arrived on a Saturday. There are four powered camp sites on the grass and few more on what looks like it was once a tennis court covered in mulch. There are no shops, we didn’t see any people, and it was super quiet. The amenities are newly renovated and super clean and there are complimentary bathroom products in the ladies. The shower looked like it had never been used. This is a perfect spot for an overnight stop. Even though it was 25kms off the beaten track, it was worth the extra km’s at only $14 a night.

Glenrowan

Last stop for lunch before the final part of the drive home. A tidy little town that is as expected set up for tourism. I was a bit surprised that the giant Ned Kelly menacingly pointing a gun looked rather the modern man about town. After a walk up and down the street we settled on lunch at the Glenrowan Hotel, thinking this was the best choice for a Glenrowan experience. Hmmmm. Disappointing. It falls just below average or acceptable. Service was good, the food was not. The ‘Kelly Draught’ is not worth trying. Don’t waste your money unless you like yellow liquid with no personality. I have no idea how old the coleslaw in my burger was but it should have been binned the day before. In their favour, the chips were good. The pizza edible if lacking any actual flavour. Shame, as it is a comfortable hotel with good choice of spaces to sit and chill. Just to let you know if you are looking for a good lunch choose another town, the Glenrowan Bakery was so disappointing we did a walk in, walk out. The choice of bakery products was very limited and looked quite unappetising. I was sad, as i really wanted to include a Glenrowan vanilla slice in my blog ‘The Great Vanilla Slice’ but they looked so plastic i couldn’t bring myself to try one. My recommendation is find another town for lunch.

Moama, The Murray and Barmah.

Posted on April 25, 2021January 24, 2025 by Frida

The Murray is truly a wondrous river. The calm yet strong and steady flow pulls you down to the depths of it’s green water, filling your mind with images of what may be lurking below…

We spent a chilled out week at Morning Glory Camp Ground. Don’t let the name put you off, i was a bit dubious, but it is an excellent place to chill away from the busy caravan parks in Echuca and Moama, with the Barmah National Park only a short drive away. There are plenty of shady riverside sites and lots of grassy sites back away from the river and trees if you don’t want overhanging branches. It is a very pretty, clean, grassy camp ground with lots of sites, but not so many powered sites. Mid week during school term found us in a virtually empty park. It was awesome.

The changing colours of the Murray throughout the day are beautiful. I couldn’t stop looking at it…and taking photos…

The birdlife is crazy. The dawn and dusk are heralded by a cacophony, or symphony, depending on your personal thoughts on birds. It is loud and it goes on and on an on. So funny. Lots of squabbling. But beware if you do choose to camp under the trees. We had to wash poo off our car every morning.

Morning Glory is a space for people who want to steep themselves in serenity, away from shops, cafes and bars. A place to sit still. BYO booze and nibbles.The amenities are basic but super clean. The camp kitchen is however not terribly inviting. Functional, but not a place to sit and chill. There is an awesome pool and kiddies water play area, place far enough from the campsites that any noise from exuberance splashers is diffused.

Be warned! The pool and cabins at the rear of the resort are riddled with ants. I happened to walk through the middle of them while walking and my feet were instantly a crawling mess. i have kick off my runners, pull off my socks and run. Very scary. Luckily Hubby had Blundstones on and they couldn’t attach to the leather.

The BBQ looks rusty and a bit past it, but with a bit of a clean it cooked like a dream. We used it every night, and no one else went near it. Give it a go, you won’t be disappointed in the results.

While on the subject of food, Suttons Bakery in Moama is right next to the Woolworths, about a 30 minute easy drive. They have a good range of cakes and breads and my review of the vanilla slice is in my blog The Great Vanilla Slices.

Just a short drive is the Barmah National Park. There are a variety of walks, some are short with colour coded guided information, and others are longer and marked with arrows. It is a beautiful area, with lots of water ways, historical areas and natural beauty. Intensely green and pretty, it is easy access and well marked parking. Lots of birds and due to the wet, mushrooms were sprouting everywhere. Fascinating. They were also in the grass at Morning Glory.

So pretty. A boat give tours on the water for those who like a bit of being toured about.

The Muster Yards are only one part of the self guided walks. There are many interesting facts about the area that are worth reading about.

The awesome trees are just plain awesome. Some are quite sculptural if you look hard.

Morning Glory has a variety of campsites, with and without power, water and amenities. There is lots of good signage. They also have their own sandy beach entry.

The Levy Bank Walk was a particularly nice part of the 5km circuit walk.

We decided to make a day trip into Echuca. The town has been tidied up and was super busy, people spilled in and out of cafes and various shops. The Old Port, is quite upgraded and not at all as i remembered it as a child. Very touristy, but we walked around and had a look, found the old Thong Tree, and decided we preferred to return to the peace of Morning Glory.

Beechworth Bakery is always busy and has a very large range of bakery goods, sweet and savoury, to choose from. Of course, we had to try the Vanilla Slice and add it to my Great Vanilla Slice blog.

So many things to delight us. From little creatures, to sweet delights, colours, and creatures. We scuttled back to our campsite, away from people, and chilled happily the whole week.

A fire at the end of the day while the sun sets and the river turns golden is indeed joyous.

Cervantes, WA.

Posted on March 3, 2020January 24, 2025 by Frida

A family wedding gave us the push to get on a place and fly across the country to the beautiful west coast, giving us a not exactly a taste of Western Australia, but rather a slight lick that triggered pangs of desire to get back as soon as we can, and again, and again. But for the first visit in many years, here is my first impression. Oh i wish i could have stayed longer and travelled further!!!

Landing early, we had heaps of time to get to our accomodation in Cervantes, so we made a couple of stops along the short two and half hours drive from Perth to Cervantes.

First stop was Yanchep National Park. A beautiful parklands with wetlands and lush grass. There are many easy walkways for those with mobility issues. Neat manicured gardens contrast with natural landscape. You need to purchase a pass to enter, as this is a national park. Fires have recently ravaged the area but there are beautiful green signs of regeneration amongst the blackened trees.

There are heaps of kangaroos, and roo poo is impossible to avoid. A koala enclosure makes viewing of the cute little fellows easy. I was told Koala’s are not native in WA. I was surprised to hear this.

Lunch was nagging at our empty bellies, we chose to check out Two Rocks. A town with quite a bit of influence from Alan Bond, who purchased land with the aim of building a theme park and a residential area, streets which were named after Yachts from the America’s Cup. Atlantis Marine Park was a huge area with Dolphin Pools and sculptures, some of which still remain. The park is lost in overgrown scrub, temptingly enticing us to try and break through the fencing that keeps people out. I peeked and peered, seeing decomposing sculptures, and left with a sense of loss that i couldn’t get close enough to see more of what was once there. King Neptune stands high above us, grinning at people who cannot get anywhere near his lost kingdom.

Lunch at Neptunes Cafe was good, the toasted bread crunchy and super delicious. Sitting outside the view over the little marina is lovely, and a small King Neptune keeps you company while you eat. Beware the huge crows, apparently they pick up and fly off with cutlery, l milk jugs, sugar packets and anything else they can lift.

The town of Lancelin boasts the Big Blue Chair. I had to stop and take a photo and add it to my blog on ‘Big and Quirky Aussie Things.’

Arriving in Cervantes, we were lucky enough to be upgraded to a very comfortable suite at the Pinnacles Edge Resort. Overlooking the main street, i can assure you, we had no issues with traffic noise. A walk around town was delightful. Many front yards had quirky artworks and sculptures that made for fun walks. Locals waved at us from cars and they yards as we passed, and several took the time for a chat.

Bougainvillaea and Frangipani were just beautiful. There were also bountiful banksia’s along the highway. The colours were extraordinary. This was at the end of February.

Cervantes is well known for its rock lobster fishing. The bay was full of lobster boats bobbing about in the water. We arrived when the area was under the influence of cyclones from further up north, but the wet weather did not detract from the beauty of the area.

Not every catch is a prize. These little fellows were sadly dumped at the end of the pier.

We drove to Jurien Bay and had to try the vanilla slices. My blog ‘The Great Vanilla Slice’ has the details…

One of the reasons i picked Cervantes as our destination was it offered some rather interesting places to visit. The stromolites at Lake Thetis were accessible via a flat path and boardwalk with a viewing platform. For those who need a walk, a sandy track circles the lake, but the flies are a nightmare!

It was extremely windy the day we were there, and the salty foam build up was thick and blowing all over us.

Jurien Bay Marine Park has firm packed sand. Many of the beaches in the area can be driven on. The clear water was incredible, shallow water warm and impossible to resist. We watched stingrays swimming past us as we stood shin deep in the water, ready to bolt if they came too near!

At this time of year, the balmy evenings mean fabulous evening beach walks.

The Pinnacles delivered much more than i expected. The landscape is incredible. I can understand why Billy Connolly was inspired to dance ‘nekked’. There is a marked walking track or you can drive through and stop in the many parking bays to get out and take photos. This is in the Nambung National Park and requires a pass. We purchased the five day pass which works out cheaper than paying per park entry.

Not dancing ‘Nekked!’

Birds on the beach.

Beach walking is pure joy on these pristine beaches. Not sure what this is, but it captured my interest.

Ooooh so pretty.

Our final night in Cervantes we had dinner at Cervantes Bar and Bistro. They serve a local ‘Pinnacles’ wine that wasn’t too bad. I chose two entree as a main which were very good. Prawns and Octopus. Very yummy, and came with a lovely crusty bread to dip in the delicious sauce under the tender prawns. The octopus was very tender. He who sat on the other side of the table chose the FOD? which i realised meant Fish Of the Day. This was a little disappointing. A serve of salmon with chips and salad as he didn’t want vegies set us back $44. A bit rich for a very basic meal. Shame, when my food was super.

On the way back south, i was once again struck by the incredible whiteness of the sand. I really am looking forward to coming back this way.

Next stop Joondalup for the wedding. We stayed at Joondalup Resort, a golf course and reception centre that is extremely busy. It’s a little dated but solid, with nice gardens and a great shower.

We had lunch at Overboard Cafe, Hilarys Boat Harbour which was a little grotty and very busy with families, not really a comfortable environment and it all felt a little grotty. Our shared platter was huge, but fatty and we felt a little erg afterwards. There were mainly chain eateries and very little of a decent quality. Great for families with little kids but i don’t recommend it for couples. the water play area in the harbour was popular, but again, it all just felt sticky and yucky and i wouldn’t have put my kids in that water. Saturday night we attended a rock’n’roll night with Let’s Rock on. A great night and well attended. Check out the ice bucket!

The wedding was both lovely and lively. The Macedonian church in North Perth is a beautiful building. A Serbian dance ensemble entertained us at the reception and it was a suitably joyous occasion with much dancing.

Back to Perth CBD for the last two days before we head back to Melbourne. We spent a couple of hours walking around Fremantle, 45 minutes of which was watching three tug boats turn a container ship and guide it out of the port to open sea. Pretty impressive.

We took a look at the round house, a gaol built in the 1830’s, the oldest building still standing in WA. Worth a visit, gold coin donation. The chaps at the door are a wealth of knowledge and tell a good story. The market didn’t ring my bell. But have a stroll through.

We chose to stay at Crowne Plaza because we had no idea where to stay, and you can’t really complain about the view, or the generous serves of bubbles, however, it getting a bit tired and shabby and the showers are in the bath with a swinging glass door to get in. Difficult if you are mobility impaired. A little overpriced and they take $50 per night bond!!! Seriously?

Walking the streets of Perth CBD. This alleyway was tour bus territory but still an interesting walk.

My fascination with plants and patterns keeps me happy.

And our last walk was through Kings Park. What a fantastic place to walk, experience incredible views and gardens, and just sit and enjoy the carpet of grass. Definitely a place everyone should visit when you come to Perth.

This poor Boab tree suffered when it was uprooted and delivered to its gaol in unfamiliar surrounds. Lots of pretty trees are however looking delightful.

A brilliant raised walkway.

And who doesn’t love waterways? Heaps of tadpoles.

And to finish off…more amazing plants. Check these little babies out. Really worth a visit.

WA you are a ripper and i can’t wait to get back.

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