Like many others, we were forced to cancel a trip to Italy as COVID took over the world. Finally we are booked, packed and ready to go! It’s a long way to Rome from Melbourne and we are grateful for the ease of a courtesy bus to Hotel Isola Sacra, a hotel we have used before due to its proximity to the airport and a consistently decent breakfast. The hotel rooms are pretty basic but they have an excellent restaurant with tables overlooking the pool and gardens, which is quite lovely. Being super tired on arrival we asked if the restaurant could make us a light snack to take back to our room. They were terribly obliging and gave us a tray with a plate of Bruschetta and two cups of tea. Perfect.
The next morning a leisurely breakfast and morning walk in the sunshine started our day off beautifully before catching the courtesy bus back to the airport to pick up our rental car and departing Rome for Villa Borgo San Pietro, located just below the hillside town of Cortona, a quiet location to commence our six week holiday.
Post breakfast sit in the pretty gardens of Hotel Isola Sacra while planning todays drive. Lunch at a roadside Tabbacci somewhere…no idea where…but we were starving and it was perfect.
Tuscany, Cortona
Villa Borgo San Pietro is delightful. Set amongst olive and fruit trees with a large pool to entice weary travellers it is exactly what you would expect in Tuscany. The bar and restaurant has indoor and outdoor areas but as we had a spacious apartment with a kitchen and patio – and are basically hermits – we only sat at the outdoor bar for an evening Aperol or vino bianco.
Our apartment week one!
Day one we woke at 5.30am (thank you jet lag) to a seriously muggy day. Clouds cloaked the nearby hills. After a stroll around the gardens we headed eagerly to the breakfast room to see what delights were offered. Breakfast is in a huge glass house surrounded by the lush garden and olive grove. a beautiful start to the day. Coffee is freshly made to order and served to our table. The buffet is above and beyone expectations.
The buttery croissants impossible to resist.
After breakfast we went for a walk to explore the surrounding village. Beautiful stone buildings and walls are a perfect backdrop for the olive trees, poppies, fig trees and Jasmine which all grow prolifically. I am squealing with delight. It is all so pretty. Lunch was simple fare followed with delicious pastries from Tiramisu Pasticceria in Camucia.
Still feeling quite weary with jet lag we had a quiet afternoon reading by the pool. Too cold to swim but lovely to look at and feel the gently sunshine. The old boy couldn’t resist doing a bit of umbrella repair.
Cortona sits majestically perched on the hillside above us. The old town glitters gold each evening in the setting sun. Fearing it would be jam packed with tourists we decided to visit this iconic historic hilltop town early in the morning. The idea was in good theory but by the time we arrived at 10am we realised everyone else had the same thought. There was not a car park to be found. Eventually, after several failed attempts and lots of circling we managed to snap a parking space just as someone was leaving. Steep alleyways jam packed with tourists huffing and puffing their way to the already crowded square. We walked around some of the back streets searching for something to exclaim over, something beautiful to capture us, but i am sad to say Cortona held little beauty, atmosphere or delight in comparison to other old towns we have visited. It was quite disappointing. The pervading atmosphere was of a Disney Town built for the tourist dollar. I took a few photos but it was hard to isolate anything that entranced me. We retreated to our peaceful villa and the sound of birds chirping over the distant drone of a busy lawn mower.
Searching for a quieter hilltop town experience we visited Castiglion Fiorentino for a walk and explore. The town has old ruins, a museum and underground archaeological site – which we sadly missed seeing by about 30 seconds as they closed the door in our faces pointing to a sign that proclaimed lunch lasted a couple of hours until reopening late afternoon. The walk around the town was quite lovely with beautiful views from the square. There were very few tourists here. Very peaceful and super pretty. I bought some of my favourite peaches from the market!
Lago Trasimeno was not too far away. We stopped for walks at the villages of Passignano Sud and San Feliciano as we drove the 45km perimetre. The water is a beautiful silvery pale blue, extremely pretty from a distance, but on closer viewing from the banks we saw quite a few dead fish floating. I don’t think i would swim in it…
The gardens were blooming.
Six days was not long enough at Villa Borgo San Pietro. I could have stayed for a month, but it was time to pack our bags and head to the village of Dosa in Liguria. I am quite sad to leave. It has been very comfortable and the staff truly delightful. Highly recommend it for those looking for a peaceful environment.
Dossa, Liguria
Dosa is a tiny village perched on a hilltop above Levanto in Liguria. It has only 36 permanent residents with a small public car park from which you walk down to the village – and then back UP. ..and UP…and UP! The atmosphere/ambiance is magical, especially at night when the lights glow softly in the narrow alleys and on the beautiful stone houses. Our host informed us there are 18 of these little villages dotted in the hills being restored. So wonderful.
Casa di Gina – our home for the next five days is precariously built on an extremely steep hilltop, as is the entire village. We climb the three stories from the front door, to the bedroom, to the kitchen and then the spiral staircase to the tiny rooftop terrace. Soooo many stairs.
The terrace has a billion dollar view which my photos unfortunately do not do justice, and i have to mention it is an excellent space for drying our laundry!
There are still renovations happenig in this Dosa. The transformations are remarkable.
Before and after. Derelict building opposite our dwelling.
Dosa is an incredibly pretty village. Impossible not to snap a pic at every step. Day and night it’s lovely.
The town of Levanto is a drive down a winding road so tight i clung to my seat either squealing or holding my breath at every bend. It was the only way to get to a supermarket or the waterfront where we walked every evening.
One of the highlights of Levanto for us is the old rail tunnel which runs for kilometres along the cliffs overhanging the beautiful coastline. Converted into walking/cycling paths they have sensibly divided separate paths for walkers and cyclists. Views of the sea and pretty coves as you pop in and out of the dark tunnels are beautiful and the tunnels provide a cool and sheltered walk. It is well frequented but still absolutely delightful at any time of the day.
The walk from Levanto to Bonassola is 2.5km. We had no idea what to expect when we popped out of the tunnel at Bonassola and were absolutely delighted to find ourselves in an enchanting seaside town. If we had known of Bonassola we would have booked accommodation there instead of Dosa. Definitely on the list for a return visit. Looking for somewhere to have afternoon tea we headed to the beach club Bagni San Giorgio, situated above a pebble beach with crystal clear water. Their coffees, lunch offerings and cakes are excellant and on return visits spent full days on the loungers, swimming and sitting up on the veranda whenever we desired drinks or nibbles. The friendly barista obligingly made me an iced coffee even though it was not on the menu. The pear tart was one of the most delicious cakes we have ever had the pleasure of eating. I also had my first Shakerato here. Coffee with sugar syrup shaken vigorously in ice and poured into a glass. It is totally yummy and perfect on a hot day. Umbrellas are a little expensive to hire as at most Italian beaches but the food and drink is very cheap and in my opinion the experience is well worth the hire cost. And did i say how crystal clear and warm the water is? And did i mention the little schools of fish gently gliding past unbothered by swimmers.
San Merino
After the disappointing visit to Cortona we cancelled our accomodation in the old town of San Marino fearing it would be a similar overly crowded tourist experience and booked an Agriturismo farm stay instead. A converted farmhouse/winery/working farm we had lots of space and quite a large apartment with a huge spa bath in the upstairs mezzanine bedroom – which we didn’t use.
A poolside breakfast is a brilliant way to start the day. Being a working farm they serve and sell much of their own produce which includes olive oil, balsamic, honey, wines and a variety of jams. All of the pasta, cakes and bread are made on site by the extremely friendly cook. Although the breakfast menu is limited in choice, the quantities are enormous. A great steaming pile of scrambled eggs are cooked fresh as you arrive. After day two we asked to skip the eggs. And the platter of cheese and cold cuts. It was just too much for breakfast. The cook was quite upset, not at all happy with our explanation that were were okay with just muesli and toast and tut tutted each morning at our frugal choices as she delivered coffee’s.
Most of this second week we spent poolside as the heat began to kick in. The covered double sunbeds had privacy curtains, were super comfortable and we really didn’t feel a need or desire to do much more than read, snooze and swim, indulge in lunch or dinner on the terrace and an Aperol or two delivered poolside. It was indulgent and rather nice.
A few days in we decided we really should get out and do some sight seeing, even though it was quite perfect chilling by the pool gazing at the great views. We decided on a day trip to Rimini. I was quite curious to feel the vibe of the Adriatic coastline and see for myself the thousands of beach umbrellas that cover the sand as far as you can see. After a crazy drive via narrow back roads I sadly have to say Rimini beach was a bit disappointing. The water was quite murky and unappealing after the crystal clear waters of Bonassola and Levanto and oil rigs were clearly visible from the shore not very far out to sea. I was not tempted to book an umbrella or swim. The water was far from enticing but the endless lines of umbrellas and loungers made a visually astonishing spectacle, it is far far far more expansive than i had imagined and it was worth the drive for the experience.
However, in contrast to the murky water and mucky sand the restaurant precincts are impressive. It was brilliant strolling around peering at the very busy and varied decor. Minimalism does not exists here. Colourful and exotic are words that come to mind. Giant bears of living grass, garlic framed pergolas for two, pots and pots of glorious flowers blooming brightly, herb and vegetable planters thriving outside of restaurants, it was a tapestry of splendour and i was glad we made the effort to drive to Rimini and experience lunch in one of these amazing restaurants. The ambiance is brilliant. The temperatures today have really gone up a notch or twenty. It is super hot! And air conditioning in these open spaces is ineffective. We sweated through lunch grateful for the cold beers.
Back to Rome to pick up our daughter who was to spend the next three weeks with us. After a long wait at the airport she finally emerged and we stayed overnight at Hotel Isola Sacra again. Our tried and trusted hotel each time we fly into Italy. After a pizza for dinner by the pool and an early night, we headed south for an overnighter in Nemoli on the way to Tropea.
Nemoli
B&B Lanziani in the picturesque village of Nemoli is delightful. A boutique B&B overlooking a small lake. The host Pietro is awesome. We booked the family room but when he found out our daughter was an adult he gave her a room to herself for free. What a star! He has converted the upstairs floor of his parents home into three private rooms with ensuites and a shared lounge/ kitchenette. There are even two guitars in the communal lounge, unfortunately both had strings missing, but that didn’t deter me from having a play.
The pretty lake which the village surrounds has a walking track around it and is perfect for a leisurely pre dinner stroll. Full of huge carp, giant noisy frogs, turtles, so many creatures! Even a snake. Garrgh. We had dinner at a lake side restaurant recommended by a local we met during our walk. The pasta was excellent. Probably the best i have ever eaten. A great meal on the terrace overlooking the lake. Totally idyllic.
After an excellent sleep – the beds and pillows were the best of any we have slept in on our Italian trips – breakfast was served by our host Pietro at his cafe on the other side of the lake. He was so sweet, and charming and eager to give us a wonderful experience. He carried our table and chairs across the road and set up our breakfast right on the lake edge. A very good croissant and slice of tart was brekky. No choices here but the hospitality was so wonderful we accepted our sugar laden repast graciously. I really enjoyed the short time we had in Nemoli and hope many others chose to stay in this beautiful location.
Tropea
Tropea is a town i have wanted to visit for a long time and when i finally got there it did not disappoint. Wow. Awesome. Tropea old town was walking distance from our hotel La Torre Residenza, as were the beaches, so we were pretty happy with our location even though it was not swanky. Our room was basic but super clean. It was a bit cozy as we only had the one room for the three of us – daughter had bunk beds to one side, however we did have a balcony and the aircon was very good.
The only way to describe Tropea is gobsmackingly beautiful. Our closest beach was across the road and via a long path which was easy going down, but a bit of a huff and puff to get back up.
I absolutely love Tropea. It is extremely beautiful day and night. The old town is abuzz with colour and atmosphere. Although busy, it is relaxed and as the sun begins to set the bars fill with people enjoying a cool drink and complimentary nibbles the sensible Italians provide. As the sun begins to set we join the gradual movement towards restaurants. After dinner we did as the Italians, promenading, strolling the streets, soaking up the balmy evenings and indulging in gelato. Tropea hit all my needs and desires. I love it, will return and recommend highly.
The food in Tropea was excellant and very reasonably priced. There was none of the sad tourist menus one sees in Rome or Venice. I had seafood every night. I also had my first Capo Spritz. OMG. Delish.
The beaches are extraordinary in Tropea. Clear warm water of the most amazing colours. Fish swim gently around swimmers, unperturbed by the high volumes of humans in their environment. The pleasure of being in this ocean is indescribably wonderful. We plonked our umbrella in the sand amongst the Italians and no one gave two hoots about space or boundaries. I spent hours floating in this amazing water.
Did i mention they are very proud growers of onions in Tropea? They are for sale everywhere and often feature on restaurant menus.
We had one rather wild morning on the beach due to storms at sea. As waves pounded the shore and rushed up under the loungers, not a squeal or movement ensued. People just took it as it came. The relaxed atmosphere is first class.
With great sadness the time came far too quickly to pack up and leave Tropea. What a place.
Sicily, Sardinia, Rome will be concluded in a separate post – Italy 2023 Part Two
Cheers.
simplethingstraveller 
wow!! 84Italy 2023 Part Two – Sicily, Sardinia, Rome
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